SIR’S BRANCH #1 GARDENING GROUP

FEBRUARY IN YOUR GARDEN

Use a highlighter on things you want and need to do.

Revised 1/18/07

1. PURCHASE & PLANT (this should be the last call for bare-root roses): Also, if you haven’t purchased and planted your other bare-root plants do it now, but avoid poor quality! Some of those bare-root plants to consider now are: apples, pears, peaches, nectarines, apricots, cherries, persimmons, and pomegranates. Also, If possible, have your planting sites, spaded and composted before you buy your plants. If you have picked them up at the nursery, and can’t plant then because the soil is too wet, then “heel them in”. This means that you plant them shallow, tilted and close together in soil or wood shavings, sawdust, or similar to keep the roots moist, or temporarily plant them in 5-15 gallon containers. When planting in 5 gallon or smaller containers, a potting mix is usually used. Good potting mixes usually contain considerable amounts of peat moss or their equivalent. However, if you make your own, remember peat moss that is dry does not absorb moisture readily and proper wetting may require special attention. This applies to roses, deciduous fruit trees, flowering deciduous trees such as flowering cherry, other deciduous plants like grapes, berries, currants, lilacs, and wisteria. Also, do the same with vegetables like artichokes, asparagus. horseradish, etc. that you plan to incorporate into your garden. It is also the time to plant other fruit trees such as citrus, but you might want to hold off on citrus if it is to be planted in a spot where you could have frost damage. See last page for planting instructions.

2. OTHER PLANTINGS (both annuals and perennials): Remember pony packs are usually best when available! A. Spring annuals-calendula, candytuft, cineraria (Senecio hybridus and S. stellata), English daisy (Bellis perennis), English & fairy primrose, for-get-me-not, Iceland poppy, pansy, snapdragon, stock, sweet William and viola. (Don Burns recommended for quick bloom, to purchase the 4-inch pots of pansies, primroses, Iceland poppies and cyclamen. B. Perennials-alstroemeria, bergenia, bleeding heart, calibrachoa, campanula spp., candytuft, columbine, coral bells, daphne, delphinium, dianthus, forsythia, foxglove (Digitalis spp.), heath, jasmine, marguerite, poppy, primrose, and violet. C. Bulbs- calla lilies, cannas, crocosmias, dahlias, tigridia; with gladiolas, planting every 2-3 weeks through July will produce flowers from spring through fall. D. Evergreen vines: Carolina jessamine, Hardenbergia violacea, Jasminum polyanthum and Clytostoma callistegiodes (See Sunset Feb.95, p 58 for details.) E. Shrubs: azaleas, camellias, rhododendrons, daphne, flowering quinces, forsythia, heath, viburnum, primrose jasmines, and some viburnums. F. Vegetables-1) set out bare-root artichoke, asparagus, and horseradish; seedlings of broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, celery, green onions, kohlrabi, and lettuce.2.) Sow seeds of beets, carrots, chard, lettuce, peas, and spinach: they grow easily and are less expensive than transplants. Indoors, start seeds of eggplant, pepper, and tomatoes.

3. Winter Care for Indoor Plants: A. Proper water management is the key to healthy house plants. Probably the most common problem is one of inadequate drainage of pots in which they are planted. Most such plants will not drain when watered, resulting in soggy, unaerated soil. House plants sold in markets, florist shops as well as nurseries are frequently in pots usually wrapped in plastic or foil, preventing drainage when they are watered which can result in a saturated, unaerated soil. The same is true, if the plant is in a pot without drainage holes. “Plant root tips” need air (oxygen) to function and survive. Plants denied oxygen for 4-24 hours, which occurs in a saturated soil, results in the root tips dying. Root tips, are covered with many root hairs and are the major port of uptake and nutrients for the plant. Repeated waterings under these conditions will ultimately result in the plant dying. It the soil has one of the water molds, the plant is likely to die more rapidly. There are several ways to correct this. In the case of plants wrapped in foil or plastic, punching holes in the bottom of the cover will allow the soil to drain. Potted blooming and/or actively growing house plants, with low humidity in your house from your furnace, may require watering 2-3 times a week. Seriously consider using your moisture meter, and the double saucer method of watering these plants (see below). Irrigation: There are two ways to water house plants, 1.from the bottom, by using a saucer and letting the water sub-up into the pot, and 2.watering from the top. Watering from the top can be preferred if you observe salts accumulating on the surface (whitish surface). However, care must be taken to avoid water getting on the leaves of some plants like African violets. This can produce spots on the leaves. When watering from the top, it usually advisable to use a small plastic ‘watering can’, and it may be advisable to use your fingers to open a spot between the foliage if needed to keep the water and any fertilizer off the foliage. Also, I have observed that many potted plants in stores and nurseries have the potting mix flush with the top. In these cases bottom watering is usually necessary. When using either of the above mentioned methods, the ‘double saucer system’ is advisable. Two saucers are needed. The inner saucer in where the water is added, and the outer saucer is a safety net. The inner saucer should be about 1 inch larger than the base of the pot, and the outer saucer at least one size larger than the inner. The saucers usually come in 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, etc. inch diameters. When watering from the bottom, fill the inner saucer and let the water sub-up into the pot. When watering from the top, add the water incrementally, until the water draining into the inner saucer is about half full. The outer saucer, with both methods is a ‘safety’ to catch any overflow. Let stand about 15-30 minutes, and if the water has subbed back up into the pot, fill from the top again, or add to the inner saucer. With both watering methods, repeat this until there is no further subbing up into the pot. This repeat aspect is especially important when the pots are on the ‘dry’ side, because much of the initial water applied to the top surface will usually flush right through the soil. On rare occasions an even greater problem occurs if the saturated soil is contaminated with one of the water mold fungi, as they can kill the root system, especially when you have a plant that is highly susceptible. Then with subsequent irrigations the plant finally dies. However, this should not be a problem to expect with plants you purchase. The next step is identifying when, and how often you should water. The frequency varies with the plant species, and I find that I can only be certain of how dry or wet the soil is, if I use a moisture meter. These are relatively inexpensive. At Orchard Supply* they cost $8, and a chart comes with them, that identifies the meter readings for watering many of your house plants. Also remember, if you have good drainage in your pots over watering is seldom a problem. The challenge then becomes of one being certain when you should water. Again, the moisture meter is the most reliable tool for me to identify this. It will tell you when the soil in the bottom portion of the pot is relatively dry. Most house plants can be classified as foliage plants, or blooming plants. Many of the foliage plants are relatively slow growing and have somewhat waxy-like leaves, which in themselves, drastically reduce transpiration (loss of water from the leaves). As such they usually can be watered less frequently. On the other hand, flowering plants usually require a more frequent watering schedule. They are usually showing more active growth, and more transpiration of water. By frequent monitoring of the plants you should be able to identify the frequency needed. To the extent that it is practical, it is usually easier to maintain a schedule if you select a specific day of the week on which to water. Again, for those plants that need to be watered several times a week, select specific days of the week. Initially use your moisture meter to establish the frequency of irrigation. B. Late fall to early spring. Most of us have our furnaces turned up during the colder days of late fall, winter, and early spring. This reduces the humidity of the house substantially and increases the need for more frequent watering. Monitoring proper soil moisture in potted plants is needed. C. Room temperature: To combat winter’s high energy prices, some turn down the thermostats on their furnaces. What effect do lower temperatures have on indoor plants? Most indoor plants will survive fine in cool temperatures. But many of the more tropical plants, like African violet, ficus, anthurium, dracaena, palm, and certain philodendrons, should have temperatures above 55°. Move these away from windowsills (which can get cold and drafty) when heating is reduced. Some plants tolerate much lower temperatures (even into the 45° range). These include hoya, coleus, Swedish Ivy, snake plant, and certain cacti and ferns. With these reduce the frequency of watering and the amount of fertilizer you give to houseplants growing in cooler temperatures. D. Fertilization of foliage plants: If you would like to avoid extensive new plant growth you can eliminate fertilization completely, or only apply it when the foliage of a well watered plant starts turning yellow, usually due to the lack of nitrogen. My Benjamin ficus which is about 10 years old has never been fertilized, and it may have doubled in size during this period. Apparently, it is in an ideal location, about 10 feet from a south facing window. However on one occasion, I kept the drapes closed, and it dropped quite a few leaves. I assumed that it was the lack of sufficient light. I now keep the drapes open about 18 inches, and have not had any further dropping of leaves.

4. PRUNING (Because pruning is one of the most critical aspects of crop culture, this paragraph may be incorporated in other winter issues of Month In Your Garden when applicable): However, when and how to prune varies with plant species. Generally, the best time to prune a deciduous tree, shrub or bush is from December to early March, and best after most of the leaves have dropped. Proper pruning of perennial plants is essential for proper growth, maintenance and quality production of fruit and nuts. Usually, between the plant species, the weather and the time you have available, pruning may have to be stretched out over several months. As such, here are some guidelines you might use. A. Pruning is best done after leaf drop but before the buds swell, prior to bloom or “leafing out”. It can be done later if necessary. This may result in a slight growth setback, but this is usually better than not pruning. Different plants usually have different times of blooming and as such it might be well to keep such a record (Chart below). However, if it is a flowering fruit or nut tree, pruning should be done after it blooms and then usually only to thin-out excessive growth, shape the tree and cut out dead and diseased wood and eliminate branches rubbing against each other. B. After pruning, a dormant oil spray is usually recommended, but spraying after bud swell with certain materials, may result in damage to buds of certain plants (read the labels). C. Roses: They are usually the first plants you should prune. January through mid-February (Valentine’s Day) is usually the preferred period for our specific area. Also, in this area, they seldom loose all their leaves, and in which case removing and destroying those leaves is desirable. D. Deciduous fruit and nut trees: Most of these are best pruned from mid-January to March. E. New deciduous bushes, shrubs and trees: In their first few years of growth, it is very important to have them properly shaped by pruning. At planting, and after the first year’s growth is more critical than years 2, 3 and so on. F. Established deciduous fruit trees. The fruiting spurs (twigs) or buds (peaches and nectarines) on which blossoms and fruit are produced and their productive life vary extensively between species. In any case it is important to have on hand good publications and references, like Sunset’s Pruning Handbook, Ortho’s All about pruning, or others. These usually identify the above. It isn’t unusual for inexperienced gardeners to prune off most of the fruiting wood spurs. This points out that if you have any doubts, you should study publications covering each species before you begin. If you would like your gardener to do your pruning, it may be necessary for you to train them, or get a new gardener. My own gardener started out as a ‘mow-blow-and go gardener. However with the help of other of his customer’s and a few of my own inputs, he has turned out to be a good gardener. And speaking of hiring gardeners, beware of those who have several crews, because they are continually replacing workers with new inexperienced less expensive workmen. My gardener has but 1 truck, and he and his helper are always there. He may change helpers, but he always trains them well. With the exception of peaches and nectarines, the blossoms and fruit are produced on spurs with varying years of productivity. Note: when you harvest the fruit, remember these are needed for next year’s fruiting, so avoid breaking them off. New fruiting spurs can and should be developed by keeping some of last years new growth. Again, peaches and nectarines are exceptions, their fruit is produced on last year’s growth, and from new buds. For the home gardener, the pruning of deciduous fruit, nuts, roses, etc. is best done by using the following general guidelines. Fruit trees will be used as an example, but the principles apply to most deciduous plants including roses. 1). Prune to establish and maintain the tree in a vase or goblet shape (open center) for good sunlight and aeration (very applicable to roses). The cuts should be made on an angle about ¼ inch above a terminal bud, which should point in the direction growth is desired. 2). New trees: The first training/pruning phase should be done at the time the bare-root tree is to be planted. This pruning may appear to be drastic. See me for detailed instructions, because after this time, inadequate or incorrect initial pruning can seldom be corrected. Adherence to proper pruning is extremely critical until the tree is about 3-5 years old and beginning to produce substantial amounts of fruit. 3). Pruning established trees: The amount of new growth to prune out is determined by the soil and fertility, location (exposure to sunlight and wind), production and expected life of fruiting spurs or buds of each variety. 4). Prune to a height that allows easy thinning and harvest of fruit without the use of a ladder. This should be considered when you buy your bare-root trees. You probably will want to select dwarf or semi-dwarf trees. 5). Ornamentals: fuchsias-To stimulate new; lush growth, cut back woody stems to main branches, then remove interior twiggy and dead growth. Container fuchsias can be pruned back to the edge of the pot rim. 6). Flowering vines, bushes and shade trees: wait to prune spring flowering plants such as lilac and Japanese snowball until after they bloom. 7). Evergreens, such as citrus: Most are not pruned like deciduous plants, but rather pruned only to maintain shape, and size, but always cut out crossing rubbing limbs or twigs, diseased and dead wood. This usually can be done any time it is obvious, regardless of the season.

TREE/BUSH & VARIETY PRUNED BLOOMED

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5. Harvest Citrus: Many of your citrus varieties should be at or approaching peak flavor now except probably Kinnow mandarin oranges, and ‘Valencia’ oranges, a summer harvested fruit in warmer areas. However, it is always best to select one of the riper appearing fruits, and run your own ‘taste test’ evaluation. Another consideration for citrus is that for most you can leave it on the tree until it ripens. Usually it will store on the tree for several months, with some further ripening and little if any loss of flavor. Also, most birds and animals usually don’t feed on them.

6. Fertilize lawns with a fertilizer including a pre-emergent herbicide, to control annual weeds emerging in the spring (see 18 below). For other plants, winter rains leach out much of the nitrogen and as plants begin to grow, a shortage of nitrogen usually results in poor growth and yellow leaves. However, other nutrient deficiencies, such as several minor element deficiencies also produce yellowish leaves. Wet soils can bring on root rots, which can produce yellow leaves. Now is a good time to apply an all-purpose fertilizer (such as 16-16-16)[N nitrogen, P phosphorous, K potassium] to those areas of your garden, that are not normally on a scheduled fertilization program. Fall planted annuals and perennials as well as established trees and shrubs get a boost from fertilizing now. Such applications not only replenish the N, but also supply P and K. Subsequent rains can help move P and K slightly deeper in the soil, while supplying the much needed nitrogen. Most fertilizer applications made now should have an adequate percentage of N, such as in 16-16-16. Those fertilizer formulations like Osmocote and Aspen, with delayed release periods, have an adequate balance of NPK. However, with those plants that are quite sensitive to frost, you might delay fertilizing another month. Avoiding any flush of new growth is usually advisable. However, the slow release fertilizers should be OK now, because they would be expected to release the nutrients more slowly. Azaleas, camellias, and rhododendrons: Some recommend waiting until after bloom, others recommend now. However, plants coming into bloom should be fertilized with a high P and K fertilizer for plant blooms. Such should have been started a month or more before the initiation of bloom. Your citrus and other plants may need a fertilizer with chelated iron, if the leaves are yellow (chlorotic). However, by March new growth should start to appear, and at that time a water-soluble foliar applied fertilizer like Miracle-Gro containing chelated minor elements can be applied as foliar applications and help correct the chlorosis. This is usually preferable to soil application, particularly those needing minor elements (more efficient plant usage). Repeated applications are usually necessary, but apply with the anticipation of a few dry days following spraying, so it isn’t washed off before being absorbed by the leaves. Roses: Fertilize about the middle of March with your controlled release fertilizer Aspen or Osmocote, and at the same time incorporate Bayer’s 2-in-1 Rose and Flower Care. This controls aphids and certain other insects. It may take 6 weeks for good insecticide action to occur, but that should coincide with the first and most damaging migration of aphids. With the controlled release fertilizer you may only need to fertilize once a year. I say may because Osmocote no longer claims an 8 or 9 month effective release period on their label. As such, It may be a good idea to plan to spray your roses with Miracle-Gro or its equivalent sometime around September or early October, as the controlled release fertilizer may be mostly depleted from its plastic pellets. The Miracle Gro fertilizer spray could produce better blooming and plant growth to the end of the year. At the same time if black spot, rust or powdery mildew appears to have become active, you may want to apply Bayer’s systemic fungicide, Disease Control for Roses, Flowers & Shrubs. (I will insert this into both the September and October Month in Your Garden) Other plants: The controlled-release fertilizers can be used on all plants, and reduce the time required for fertilizing as well as avoiding forgetting or not having time to fertilize when needed

PEST, DISEASE & WEED CONTROL: WINTER-SPRING GUIDELINES

Remember: usually control is reducing problems to acceptable levels, not eradication.

PESTS & THEIR CONTROL & DORMANT SPRAYS

7. GENERAL DISEASE & PEST CONTROL: Review labels carefully for what will be controlled. Occasionally local nursery monthly newsletters and others may unintentionally give misinformation on the scope of the problems controlled with one of their recommended pesticides (check the labels). Spray roses and deciduous fruit trees with dormant sprays after pruning (See 17.below). Peach leaf curl-peaches and nectarines, after pruning use lime sulfur (recommended by the University of California) but without oil, but if you can’t find lime-sulfur, use a copper (like Micro-cop) and a ‘sticker’ with a dormant oil.. The next but most important application should be made when the flower buds first display pink color (pink bud stage). Codling moth on apples and pears will be emphasized in our March in your garden. However on apples, it may be well to you get at least one spray on for the rosy apple aphid, if they have been a problem in the past, use either a dormant oil spray, possibly with an insecticide as the tree starts leafing out. This aphid will stunt both the foliage and effect fruit development. You may want to evaluate Bayer’s relatively new Tree and Shrub Insect Control product, as aphids are listed for both apples and pears, and you may want to see if it controls other of your apple and pear insects.

8. Snails & slugs: As night temperatures rise, they become more active and can quickly devour flowers such as crocus, daffodils, Iceland poppies, pansies and primroses. Apply bait, hand pick at night, or a shallow saucer of stale beer, or copper strips around plants as barriers .

9. Earwigs: They can feed on flowers. Apply earwig bait. Homemade corrugated cardboard rolls with large corrugations sometimes are effective, but rolled up newspaper, secured with a rubber band are probably better. Place them in covered places where you find most of your earwigs. The morning of garbage pickup, place them in the garbage can or place them in a container in which you can kill them. There are also baits available.

10. Aphids: Many aphids are cool (not cold) weather pests. As such, they are usually a problem and cause the greatest damage in the spring and to some extent late fall. However, some are active during the summer. Aphids usually feed on active new growth, and they can be very damaging to new growth, both shoots and certain young developing fruit. They over-winter as eggs on plants and in some cases nearby weeds. Their presence on certain weeds is just one further justification for cleaning up weeds and debris from under trees, shrubs and bushes and the dormant spraying of everything.

10. Worms: Codling moths on apples and pears over-winter as fully grown larvae in cocoons under loose scales of bark on the tree and in the soil or in debris around the base of the tree. A thorough dormant oil spray of the entire tree and soil under it should substantially reduce their numbers. However, keep in mind that the adults of these worms are nocturnal moths, and can be expected to fly in later from the surrounding neighborhood, especially where your close neighbors don’t maintain an effective spray program. If you haven’t applied a dormant oil spray and feel it might be helpful, do so following your dormant pruning or now if you have already pruned. Further instructions on codling moth as the fruiting cycle begins will follow next month. Dormant spraying should be effective against most other insect eggs, scale and mites, over-wintering in various places on the tree and in the soil and debris around the tree. The addition of a good insecticide to dormant oil usually makes it even more effective.

11. Mites (spider mites): on perennials, the last generation of the season lay their eggs on the older wood, particularly fruit trees, frequently where the branches join the trunk of the tree An insecticide fortified dormant oil as used for worms should be very effective on mite eggs. Check your trees for these, most species appear as numerous reddish eggs on the surface of the branches.

12. Scales: Are best controlled with a dormant oil spray, when most of the leaves are off the tree, and a dormant oil combination like the above should give acceptable control until next winter. However, the above mentioned Bayer’s Tree & Shrub Insect Control may be even more effective, but likely much more expensive.

13. Other insects: Each perennial has the potential for other insects and mites over-wintering on the plant. A dormant spray would be expected to reduce their numbers substantially.

DISEASES

14. Powdery mildew: Is usually most damaging in cool weather. The new leaves of certain plants are quite susceptible, but with other plants it is the older leaves that are affected. On apples, the tips of last season’s growth are where the organism over-winters. When pruning, all of last year’s new growth should be pruned back to some degree, and particularly the tips which harbor the over-wintering phase of the fungus. Such pruning along with cleaning up the debris should eliminate most of the over-wintering fungi.

15. Peach leaf curl (peaches & nectarines)[see 7 above]: This is usually their most serious disease problem, and requires a good spray program to keep it under control. Apply lime sulfur without oil, or a 50% microencapsulated copper with a sticker if the lime sulfur isn’t available.

16. Petal blight of Camellias and Azaleas are caused by 2 different fungi: This is usually the worst disease of camellias, browning the otherwise beautiful blooms and affecting unopened buds. The most effective control is removing the obviously infected blooms, and picking up any that have fallen. Place them in your garbage can. The fungus is usually spread by spores developing on the infected blooms on the ground. Sunset recommends the application of 4 inches of organic mulch beneath camellias to reduce spore survival (and dispersal-HWL). With azaleas the diseased petals cling to the leaves and detract from the beauty of the blooms. In the past, Burlingame Garden Center (J. Hester) recommended a special PCNB fungicide by Cooke, but recently I haven’t seen it in any nurseries.

17. General note on spraying: When it is recommended that you spray after pruning for certain specific insects or diseases, but you if you have checked carefully and haven’t observed any, and know what to look for; it maybe somewhat questionable that you need to spray. Needless spraying, especially for insects can reduce the population of a wide variety of beneficial insects. Also, if a particular problem is of minor importance to you, there may be no reason to spray, and it will save you time, allowing you to do something else.

WEED CONTROL

15. Lawns-crabgrass, spotted spurge and annual bluegrass: You have from now to March. 1 to control these. Use a pre-emergent herbicide like Preen or Amaze, alone or incorporated in a fertilizer mix. This type of weed killer only kills germinating seeds, so it must be applied before the weed seeds germinate. For the same reason, it should never be applied just after direct seeding a new lawn. With weed seeds such as spotted spurge and crab grass in your lawns, application every 3 months during spring and summer should be helpful in keeping it under control.

17. Pre-emergent herbicides (seedicides)(Preen and Amaze are examples): The germination of weed seeds (mostly small seeds) can be prevented by applying a material like Preen or Amaze to bare ground, and scratching it into the upper 1/4 inch of soil with a rake. You might want to apply it under your roses, bushes, and other perennials where you want to keep the soil free of weeds and seedling flowers, such as allysum. However, don’t use this where you have scattered seed such as wildflowers. It doesn’t distinguish between weed seed and other desirable seeds you may have planted.

18. When transplanting seedlings: The same pre-emergent seedicides used for lawns can be used here. You can transplant flowers, etc. but apply it to the surface soil after transplanting. Again, these can’t be used when you are planting vegetable or flower seed.

19. FROST & FROST DAMAGE: Watch for dry, still nights when it’s clear; monitor weather forecasts for cold fronts moving into the area. You can check on this almost any time of day on “The Weather Channel” of your TV and they even show specific predictions for most of our area. Move plants: If frost is predicted, move tender container plants such as citrus, cymbidiums, hibiscus and mandevilla beneath overhangs or into the garage. Cover: Otherwise protect them by draping burlap or cotton over the plants, rather than plastic, as the plant needs to breathe. If plastic coverings are used, avoid them touching the leaves if practical. Remove the covers during the day. Spray: Plants with ‘Cloud Cover’, a polymer coating that reduces the plant’ respiration and makes them more tolerant of frost. Mulch: Insulate the roots by spreading, mulch, or bark on the ground. If frost is likely during the early morning, water the plants in advance. Good soil moisture produces some degree of insulation to the root system, and itself retains some heat, and promotes good turgidity in the plant which will reduce frost damage. Frost damaged plants: Patience is the key to reviving frostbitten plants. It is best to withhold pruning out the damage until spring. With future frost damage possible, to prune now, also reduces the plant’s ability to survive. Though it may be tempting to trim off dead leaves and stems, it may only encourage new, young growth that won’t survive another winter frost. Wait: Until spring to see if your plants make a comeback, and then trim out the damaged areas. Water: If the ground is not frozen, continue watering the plant. Good soil moisture not only protects the roots, but can radiate some of its daytime accumulated heat, which will be warmer than the outside air.

20. REPOT CYMBIDIUMS: If your cymbidium orchids are bulging out of their containers, and flower production is decreasing, they may need to be repotted. Repot them between mid-February and early July. The best time is immediately after each pot finishes blooming. Remove the plant from the container, cut off dead roots, and discard soft rotted bulbs (pseudobulbs). Transfer the entire plant into a larger container or divide the plant into groups of 3-5 pseudo-bulbs (with leaves) and repot each division. Which potting mix is best for repotting? Cymbidium orchids are terrestrial plants and in their native habitat they grow in the ground. As such you can incorporate garden soil in your mix, and even plant them directly into the ground, but avoid areas with direct sun. When I started growing Cymbidiums, I used fine bark, but Sunset recommends medium bark, such as Rod McLellan’s Wonderbark, Orchid and Planter Bark. They have both medium or fine, and there may be other suppliers. However, I have found that using only bark, and particularly the fine bark, its decomposition resulted in air pockets through which the water flowed rapidly, resulting in poor water distribution. Whenever, I repot in the future, I plan to incorporate soil, possibly sand and other recommended materials to minimize this. However, If you have used bark exclusively and the plants don’t appear to need a larger pot, or need dividing, and if the plants have been in the same pot for 3 years or more, they probably should be repotted.

21. OTHER ORCHIDS: Cattelyas, Oncidiums, and many others are referred to as epiphytic plants. In their native habitat, they usually grow attached to limbs of trees and other plants growing in the humid tropics. They are not plant parasites. Maintaining them is considerably different from Cymbidiums and other terrestrial orchids. Probably half or more of the orchids grown today are Cymbidiums.

22. PLANTING BARE ROOT PLANTS (ROSES & OTHER PLANTS)

1. It is recommended that the roots of bare root plants be placed in water overnight to reestablish good

moisture within the plant.

2. Before planting, cut about ¼ inch off the roots to promote new growth.

3. Also, get out your pruning books, and prune as recommended before planting.

4. Dig a hole that is approximately 8-10 inches wider and deeper than the roots.

5. Construct a cone shaped mound in the base of the hole and spread the roots over the cone.

6. Holding the plant upright, fill the hole with planting mix or compost-rich garden soil.

7. Make sure the crown or graft union is above the surrounding soil level.

8. Water thoroughly, holding the plant in position if necessary.

9. Check to make certain the crown isn’t buried and the graft union is at least two inches above the surrounding soil surface after watering.

10. Refrain from fertilizing until the new growth is 4-6 inches long (2 to 3 sets of leaves for strawberries), but water several times during the first week to stimulate new growth.

17. AUTOMATIC IRRIGATION SYSTEMS: There are at least 5 reasons for installing an automatic irrigation system. If you have a normal landscaped yard, you may need to expand your system in your entire yard and outdoor containers that are not on an automatic system. Of course there may be current situations that don’t justify it, but, A. It can supply the optimum amount of water the plants need and when they need it using a good schedule. B. Such a program can reduce the amount of water used, usually by 50% or more. C. During periods of water rationing, drastically reduced irrigation schedules will allow survival of the plants using a minimum water maintenance schedule. D. It will allow you to be gone for extended periods of time, knowing the plants will be adequately watered. Yes the equipment can fail during your absence, but it isn’t too likely if you checked it out in advance. E. As we grow older, we frequently can’t stay on top of everything as well as previously. I have tentatively scheduled a session early this year.

The following was published after our December 1, 2005 meeting

Green gifts of the season can live to see another year

Victor Vool-Ask Dr. Hort

SF Chronicle 12/18/2005

Every year Dr. Hort's post-holiday mail contains anxious inquiries from the horticulturally harassed concerning live plants received as gifts or used to deck the halls that are exhibiting symptoms of impending expiration. Here are some hints to help your plants survive and thrive Until it's time to fire up the yule log

Amaryllis. These spectacularly beautiful bulbs can grace festive holiday gatherings for years to come with just a bit of effort on your {or someone's) part. Keep them in a bright spot while they're in bloom, watering just often enough to keep the soil barely moist to the touch. Once the flowers have faded, remove them and start fertilizing as the foliage appears; the nutrients stored during the spring and summer growing season will influence the quantity and quality of next year's flowers. Amaryllis should go dormant {die back completely) in the fall. If they don't, induce dormancy by with- holding water and stick the bulbs in a cool, dark spot {crawl spaces and garages are great). About one month before you want them to bloom, repot the amaryllis with fresh soil, water well, place in a well-lit location and crank up the carols.

Livinq Christmas trees. Rooted tannenbaums are pricey alternatives to those with X-shaped wooden stands on the end opposite the star, but the cost can be amortized over any number of years until it gets too big to drag inside. Cardinal Rule No. I: Since artificially heated interiors are the exact environmental opposite of the cool mountain slopes where most of these conifers evolved, don't keep live trees indoors for more than a week if you expect them to continue living. Water the root-ball thoroughly (and hose off the foliage) and let it drain before you bring the tree inside. Should your tree need a drink during the holidays, just toss a tray of ice cubes onto the soil. After the holidays, move the tree outside, rehydrate (foliage too), repot if necessary, fertilize (a time-release like Osmocote is great) and keep it out of direct sunlight for a month or so until the photosensitive phase has passed. Then move your tree to a sunny spot where it will grow until it's time to hang those stockings again. To avoid leaning tower of Pisa syndrome, remember to rotate the tree monthly if it only gets sun from one direction.

Ornamental fruits and vegetables. Interesting and attractive mistletoe alternatives, in some cases every bit as poisonous. Ask at the place of purchase if you're not sure. English holly plants loaded with bright red berries will induce trips to the emergency room instead of visions of sugarplums if grasping little hands can access them. Jerusalem cherries, covered with cherry tomato look-alikes, have been fatal to children who ate as few as three fruits. Some of those beautiful ornamental peppers that come in so many wonderful colors and fruit shapes can melt your fillings should you choose to sample one, as little Dr. Hort painfully discovered many years ago. Ornamental cabbages and kales are feathered in shades of white, pink and purple on a blue-green background and make great centerpieces. Try them grouped with paperwhite narcissus, white hyacinths or red tulips. Same watering drill here as with the amaryllis {just enough to keep the soil moist to the touch), but unlike the amaryllis {and the

English holly) don't bother with fertilizer. These plants are annuals and can just be dumped, along with the fruitcake remnants, after the holidays.

Cyclamen. Lush and elegant florist's cyclamen hate it inside, unless your home is unusually cool and bright. Most rooms are too dark and too hot, the fireplace- and furnace-heated air is too dry and attractive assemblages of cyclamen rapidly become much less so when decorated with eggnog drippings and dropped dipped Doritos. It's best to put them outside in morning sun and keep them well watered and fertilized until the day of the festivities, bring them in for a day or two, then put them back outside until the next crowd of carolers is due. Cyclamen are perennials in mild-winter climates, so plant them out in the garden with ferns, azaleas and other shade and moisture lovers after you've packed up the creche for another year.

Orchids. They're nondenominational decorations that don't look dated on Boxing Day and are becoming more affordable as increasingly efficient mass-propagation techniques are developed. Dr. Hort's friends in Mendocino styled a holiday soiree with massed white phalaenopsis and scarlet poinsettias to stunning effect. At another gathering, the dining room table and sideboard center- pieces were green and white lady's slippers blooming out of silver Revere bowls mulched with chartreuse reindeer moss. Pure white, lightly fragrant cymbidiums dropped into cachepots the color of Santa's suit were simply elegant appointments at another do. orchids come in thousands of flower forms and color combinations, with new hybrids introduced every year, but the green-thumb challenged should stick to temperate orchids like cymbidiums and epidendrums (rather than the tropicals of jungle origin like cattelyas), which can be grown out- side in frost-free climates and enjoyed indoors while in bloom. Different types of orchid require different types of fertilizer, so ask at the garden center to be sure that you get the right one. As for watering, use water at room temperature in the morning so the plants have a chance to dry out a bit before those long, cold nights before Christmas.

Topiaries. Vines (usually ivy or creeping fig), herbs (lavender, rosemary, lemon verbena) or woody shrubs (boxwood, myrtle, holly, scented geraniums) can be clipped, wired and tortured into architectural shapes. Big with those who follow Martha Stewart, Architectural Digest and House and Garden. Same protocol as for living trees, but avoid ice cubes in favor of room-temperature tap water. Restraint is called for when decking the halls with topiary-less is definitely more. Restrain yourself to little twinkle lights, tiny glass ornaments or bows of holiday fabric and remember that attempts to substitute plastic or silk facsimiles will fool no one and only invite snickers and snide remarks under the mistletoe.

Poinsettias. They do best in a bright sunny window, out of drafts, that approximates, if only slightly, their Mexican origin. Available in many colors and bi-colors other than red, white and pink (Dr. Hort has seen plum purple and even a disconcerting artificially induced turquoise, tarted up with gold glitter} in a variety of flower and plant sizes. It is most important that you don't forget to poke a hole in (or better yet, lose} the festive foil pot wrapping or you will have root rot long before Happy New Year. Keep the soil barely moist with water at room temperature, just like the orchids, and consider this a holiday annual' just like the ornamental peppers. Poinsettias are not easily brought back into bloom on' schedule and they are nothing you want to keep around for another year. Start the new year right and just toss them when they become tlresome.

Victor Vool is a certified Bay Area nurseryman. E-mail him at home@sfchIonicle.com.