SIR’S BRANCH #1 GARDENING GROUP
June in Your Garden 5/28/09 5/23/10
Table of Contents
If you maintain copies of the last 12 Months in Your Garden in a 3-ring binder, with a Table of Contents for each month, it should be easier to locate information in previous issues of Month in Your Garden.
Page #
1 Table of Contents
2 1. Summer flowers to plant
2 2. Perennials to plant
3. Foliage plants as fillers
2 4. Bulbs to plant
2 5. Roses
3 6. Low maintenance shrubs:
3 7. Plants in pots (outdoors) to include hanging baskets
3 8. Vegetables
3 9. Melons
3 10. Fruit trees & Citrus to plant
4 11. Planting tips for dahlias
4 12. Time to Propagate using cuttings.
4 13. Time to divide irises
4 14. Pinching-to encourage new growth of azaleas, fuchsias, geraniums and
marguerites.
4 15. Grooming: A. Rhododendrons B. Azaleas. C. Camellias D. Roses
5 E. Remove suckers from trees F. Groom and feed spring bulbs G. Stake tall
plants: floppy flowers, dahlias, gladiolas and others.
5 16. Mulching-water conservation, weed suppression, and keeping roots cool.
5 17. Thinning-apples and other fruit
5 18. Shape plants-pruning young or fast growing trees, shrubs and vines.
5 19. Training-cane berries and other trellised plants.
5 20. Lawns-soil compaction and turf aeration..
6 21. Protect fruit crops-from birds, squirrels, etc..
6 22. Fertilize-house plants and lawns
6 23. Foliar Applied Fertilizers-value of method.
7 24. Pest & Disease Control- A. weather effect on control.
B. Aphids- C. Scale and other sucking insects: D. Codling moth sprays for
7 apples & pears. E. Spittle bugs, F. Slugs & Snails, G. Earwigs H. Fuchsia mites,
I. Mites. J. Thrips. K. Lawn problems
8 25. Automatic Irrigation systems-check, clean, adjust frequency and time.
8 26. Watering house plants:. A. foliage plants amounts, frequency, fertilizing, etc.
B. flowering plants- water & light requirements,
9 27. Watering out doors-planter boxes, pots, and hanging baskets.
9 28. Potting mixes to use-there are many new ones, with many variations in their
contents and their special contributions to plant growth.
9 29. Pots-an expanded selection of plastic, clay and ceramic pots. .
9 30. Monitoring moisture levels, pH and light with meters for the best growth and
flowering of plants.:
10 Tomatoes-Pam Pierce and Lynn Evans
11 Weed Control, Black Plastic Containers for Roses, Etc. Revised 5/20/10
12 Rain, Lightning, and Nitrogen fertiloization
SIR’S BRANCH #1 GARDENING GROUP
JUNE IN YOUR GARDEN
Revised 5/27/10 (5/19/10)
For maximum use of the following information that might be of interest to you, review the Table of Contents. Most of you probably don’t have time to study this in detail. I suggest that you just review those sections listed in the Table of Contents in which you are interested. Highlight those plants you wish to plant and other chores that need to be done. You may notice several sections that were covered last month, but are still somewhat applicable for June. Also, your own experience should always be considered in your choices of what and how you do things.
Our spring weather this year has been extremely abnormal. We started the year with less than normal rainfall through April. But in May, when normally we have a limited amount of rain, we have had a considerable amount of intermittent rain. It was reported that it was in the early 1900’a since we had May rains like this.
1. Plant: Summer flowers:(those followed with LS should be planted in light shade), Buy and plant 6 packs (preferably small pony packs where available) of Ageratum, Celosia argentea (cockscomb), Coreopsis spp., Cosmos spp., catmint (Nepeta cataria), Dahlia spp, Diascia spp., fibrous rooted begonias LS, Gaillardia spp., globe amaranth (Gomphrena spp.), Impatiens (usually Impatiens wallerana) LS (if you have spots that are sunnier- try the New Guinea hybrids, they are more heat tolerant), Lobelia (usually Lobelia erinus?) LS, Madagascar periwinkle (Vinca rosea), marigold (Tagetes spp.), Nicotiana sylvestris, Penstemon spp., perennial statice (Limoniun, usually L perezii), petunias (Petunia. hybrida), Phlox spp. (see June ’98 Sunset, p 58), Portulaca grandiflora, Salvia spp. (sages-see June ’98 Sunset, p58 for suggestions), Sanvitalia procumbens, sunflower (Helianthus spp.), sweet alyssum (Lobularia maritima), Tithonia rotundifolia (Mexican sunflower), Torenia fournieri, Verbena spp. and Zinnia spp. Note: this is usually the best month to plant zinnias-The Peter Pan variety proved best for me. This hybrid doesn’t produce seed, and continues to grow and flower into the fall. Then in a matter of a few weeks, it goes from traces of powdery mildew to most of the plants showing it severely. As such, I have no hesitancy to pull them out, spread ammonium sulfate or a 16-16-16 NPK mix, spade the soil at least 6 inches deep, and plant my winter flowers. I usually replace them with Iceland poppies.
2. Perennials to plant: consider geraniums (actually Pelargonium spp.). Plant Bougainvillea brasiliensis, B. spectabilis and Hibiscus rosea-sinensis, in as frost-free sunny exposure area as available. You might want to try dwarf crape myrtles. Also, you might wish to consider planting Alstroemeria aurantiaca (Peruvian lily, which you will find is one of the best cut flowers for your dining room table. It has an excellent vase life, of 1 or more weeks. If you have a ‘cutting garden’ or frequently cut flowers to display in your home, Alstroemeria should be a must. The taller growing varieties are best for cut flowers. It is probably the most common cut flower used on your table in a restaurant and is chosen just for that reason as well as being very attractive. Calibrochia also known as Million Bells is a petunia relative. They do very well in the relatively shallow flower bowl pots, when placed in direct sun, and are available at Orchard Supply and Hardware. I would suggest that you use one of the new potting mixes. If they don’t contain a controlled release fertilizer, I would suggest that mix in a controlled release fertilizer like Osmocote. If your flower bowl is shallow, it is probably best to water them daily. I have had very good luck growing them, and I have always had them in shallow pots. Never use a planting mix only a potting mix in a shallow bowl.
3. Foliage plants (fillers): artemisias, dusty miller, and golden, purple, or tricolor sage.
4. Bulbs: continue to plant gladiolus every 2-3 weeks to extend the flowering season into fall, and plant other summer bulbs, tuberous begonias LS, dahlias, Crocosmia crocosomiiflora also known as Tritonia crocosomiiflora (montbretia), and Tigridia pavonia (tiger or Mexican shell flower) and others.
5. Roses: You get your best roses if you purchase you roses in late January or early February as bare root roses. However, there are good roses in 2 & 5 gallon containers at most nurseries, but variety selection is usually limited. If you haven’t applied your controlled release fertilizer, and alfalfa pellets, do it now. Also, if you don’t already have mulch under your roses, it is a good idea. Spread 3-4 inches of bark or other mulching materials under rose bushes to help conserve
6. water, keep roots cool, and control weed seed germination. If you spread only about an inch of mulch, you can save yourself some time weeding, if you spread a pre-emergent herbicide like Preen before you spread the mulch. Also, keep the mulch away from the trunks.
7. Low maintenance shrubs: Consider blue hibiscus (Alyogyne huegelii), Cape mallow (Anisodontea spp.), Cape plumbago (Plumbago auriculata), Ceanothus spp. (wild lilac), Euphorbia spp., feathery cassia (Cassia artemisioides), flax hybrids (Linum spp.), Jerusalem sage (Salvia spp.??), lavender Lavendula spp.), rockrose (Cistus spp.), Russian sage (Perovskia abrotanoides-‘blue spire’) and tree mallow (Lavatera spp.).
8. Plants in pots and hanging baskets (outdoors): Now is a good time to start many different plants in pots. However, I have several points of caution. First if you have had no experience with a specific plant, check its growing prerequisites in the Sunset Western Garden Book. It specifies the climate zones, the amount of sun and water needed. Also, your local newspaper garden section make recommendations. Other similar garden magazines may be for the entire U.S. in general and they don’t take into consideration our different spring/summer climate. ‘Ortho’ books are good references for many items, but they too are written for the U.S. in general. After following all of the many recommendations found in the Sunset book there are other considerations, many of which are covered in some of the other Sunset books. From John Chiapelone’s Garden Clinic he indicates that in June, most potted plants in 1, 2 and sometimes 5 gallon containers require rather frequent watering dependent upon the daily temperatures and wind. Following hot days they may require daily watering. The larger the pot, the less frequent the watering. Your failure to do this is likely to result in dead plants or at least them being set back drastically. Hanging baskets usually require even more frequent watering. If you are home almost every day and you enjoy hand watering, you may not need an automatic irrigation system. However, if you are gone a lot and are very busy an automatic irrigation system is usually the best system for both outdoor pots and hanging baskets. It too can reduce water usage. However, even an automatic system needs to be checked periodically to be certain it is functioning properly. If you are watering properly, and have chosen the proper location in the yard for your plant, then a good potting mix and a good fertilization schedule is advisable. Mixes that drain well are best. Use only potting soil, and not a soil mix. There are a variety of new potting soils, and one of the best is Miracle-Gro’s- Moisture control potting mix, which feeds plants up to 3 months. This is one of the best potting mixes with polymers added that absorb and retain more water, and increase the period of water availability. Also, toward the end of the season you may choose to apply Miracle-Gro’ All Purpose water soluble fertilizer or its equivalent. It can be applied in an irrigation application, or sprayed on the plant foliage.
8.Vegetables: plant beans, beets, carrots, chard, corn, cucumbers, eggplant, melons, okra, peppers, pumpkins, squash, and tomatoes, (actually most vegetables). Sow successive crops of beets, bush beans, carrots, corn, chard, lettuce and radishes. A.Tomatoes: Early Girl is the earliest to bear, and best tomato in our area. Ace-the best all purpose if you plan to can the fruit in some manner. Brandywine-excellent heirloom tomato. Produces meaty, real tomato tasting fruit. Beefmaster & Better Boy-best in hot areas. Celebrity-large fruit, takes about 80 days. Good tasting. Champion-large fruit, early producer. Cherry Red Cherry & Sweet 100-good in salads and hors d’oeuvres. Patio-excellent in containers. Red Pear Roma-great for sauces. San Francisco Fog-thick skinned fruit, but will produce in cool temperatures. Yellow Pear-good for cooking and preserving. Oregon Spring-early tomato for cool summer seasons, exceptionally fine flavor and succulence. However, remember you are growing these for your own enjoyment of vine ripened fruit, and your specific tastes should be your basis for selection.. However your own past experience and preferences should be your guide, but if you haven’t tried Early Girl and Stupice, do so this year. Also try Sungold a cherry tomato. See SFChronicle 4/01/08 article on page 10. Train your tomatoes, preferably with wire supports, that keep the plants erect. These are generally available at nurseries.
9. Melons: Normally your soil should be thoroughly warm by now, but the rains and cooler than normal temperatures may delay their growth. In our climate choose short-season varieties that ripen in 65 to 75 days. If you have a cool spell, you may be able to improve growth by planting seed or plants through holes cut in clear plastic. Use clear plastic not black, to maximize the greenhouse effect of sunlight passing through the film. It heats the soil during the day and the film retains much of it at night.
10. Fruit trees: Citrus-it is still time to plant these, but select your varieties carefully as sour oranges and grapefruit are not generally desirable, particularly when you can buy good sweet citrus at your
market. However, citrus is probably the one fruit that most robbers like squirrels and birds seem to leave alone. Also, if you like tangerine type citrus, you should try a Dwarf mandarin orange. Recently, after tasting fruit samples, we just purchased a sweet Golden Nugget mandarin from Robert Reynolds Nursery in Menlo Park. The March Sunset also recommends that specific Mandarin orange as well as the citrus propagator-Four Winds Grower. When you plant citrus, follow the advice of a reputable nurseryman in selecting varieties for your area. Also, citrus can remain on the tree for months before harvesting them.
11. Planting tips for large dahlias. They need warm, properly prepared soil to get off to a good start (May-best). Dig holes 12 inches deep and 10-12 inches across. Fill the bottom 6” with good soil; lay the tuber on its side with the eye up.
12. Propagate cuttings: May and early June are some of the best times to propagate cuttings. Suggestions from earlier Sunset articles suggested the following. Take 3-5 inch cuttings of carnations & dianthus, and 2-3 inches of fuchsias. With pelargoniums (geraniums) or marguerites at least 2 inches of new tip growth. Generally, tip cuttings are best. Most of the softwood cuttings like geraniums do not need to be dipped into a rooting compound. I use damp sand in old, but clean 6 packs or other containers, and insert cuttings into a hole about 1 inch deep, punched with a pencil. Other plants for propagation include chrysanthemum, hydrangea, lantana, lavender and roses (miniatures). Cuttings from camellia, azalea, rhododendron and other hardwood plants as well as certain softwood cuttings, do best with a misting system or something comparable usually do best. There are various small plastic containers with covers that simulate a greenhouse. The best cuttings are taken from the new growth, which develops following the blooming period. With azaleas, camellias, and rhododendrons, each cutting should be about 3-5 inches long and have at least 2 nodes or leaf joints. I remove the lower leaves from the cutting and on the base, I strip off the bark about1/16 wide and ¾ in long on opposite sides. I use my thumb and an opposite fingernail to do this. This only removes the outer ‘bark’ of the cutting. After dipping the base in a rooting hormone, I tap off the excess, insert the cutting into a pre-punched hole about 1 inch deep in a damp coarse mixture of sand and peat moss. A 50:50 mix is usually best. I put this mixture in old, but clean 6 packs or other containers, and place them under my greenhouse misting system. Without a misting system and using various other methods you can still obtain acceptable rooting of your cuttings. Incidentally, there are 2 different chemicals used as rooting hormones. I suspect there are different plants for which one works better than the other. If you do considerable propagation, you might want to compare them.
13. Dividing: Irises are best divided after they bloom. It is recommended that most bearded iris varieties be dug and replanted every 2-3 years. If you have problems with their failure to bloom after a few years this may be your answer.
14. Pinching: To encourage branching on azaleas, fuchsias, geraniums and marguerites, pinch out the growing tips of new shoots. Also pinch out leaf and flower buds on small 6 packs of marigolds, petunias and tall zinnias. This is just another reason to buy pony packs with healthy but small non-blooming plants.
15. Grooming: A. For more blooms on rhododendrons next year, gently snap off blooms as they fade. However, better than snapping is to use small pruning shears to avoid damaging the tiny leaf buds below the flower cluster. Study several of these faded blooms, and closely observe where the new growth will occur, and cut or snap above them. These small buds represent upcoming summer growth and next year’s flower buds. If damaged, they usually result in tips that don’t have flowers next season. Also, if you haven’t pruned and shaped your rhododendrons, they may becoming rather large, likely rather leggy and straggly. John Chiapelone recommends that you prune it back and shape it. When pruning, cut about ¼ inch above a node pointing in the direction that new growth is desired. When in bloom next year it should be a more impressive blooming shrub. B. Remove faded flowers from azaleas. C. Also, with Camellias-because of petal blight, continue to remove all blighted (brown/dark blooms) from both the plant and from the ground. The fungus responsible for this disease develops in these blighted blossoms, which ultimately fall to the ground. Infected blooms on the ground, produce spores (like tiny seeds), which are shot into the air, landing on the new blooms where infection occurs. After bloom is the best time to prune and shape most any blooming perennial, shrub tree, etc. D. Roses- Also check and remove new growth (suckers) coming up from the rootstock. The suckers usually grow rather tall, with a single terminal bud frequently 2-3 feet above the soil. Their foliage is usually slightly different, and is the foliage of the rootstock. However, there are several different rose varieties that are used as rootstocks and may have differing foliage. These suckers originate below the ud union, usually just above or below the soil surface. If left to grow, they can “take over” and eliminate the variety that you purchased. On hybrid teas and grandiflora roses, snip off faded blooms ¼ inch above the first leaf (from top) with five leaflets. For a long-stemmed rose, cut just above the second leaf with five leaflets. Also, remember leaving dead roses on the bush can produce two adverse effects on growth 1) the “hips” (seed) that form use up much of the plant’s energy during their formation, slowing plant growth and 2) many seed producing plants regard this as the end of their blooming season, and quit blooming. Native plants produce seed, to perpetuate the species, go into semi-dormancy and quit blooming so they can start building up food reserves for next spring. E. Remove suckers from trees- these leafy, straight; fast-growing shoots, again are found growing from the rootstock, and compete for water and nutrients. Such suckers are also common on fruit trees, flowering trees, many trees, roses, and shrubs. In most cases, they originate from the rootstock, and are both undesirable as well as reducing the plant’s growth. After all they get ‘first crack’ at nutrients taken up by the roots. F. Groom and feed spring bulbs- remove spent flowers where the stems rise from the base. Leave foliage to manufacture food for next year’s growth and feed with a bulb fertilizer such as bone meal. When the leaves start to yellow, cut back on water, and when yellow dig up the bulbs, allow to dry in a shady spot (continued exposure to direct sun will damage the bulbs), clean and store in a cool place. If your bulbs are in pots, you can usually store the pot and all in a cool area out of the sun. Then bring them out and start watering them when it is time to plant bulbs. G. Stake tall plants: floppy flowers, dahlias, glads and others.
16. Mulch: To help control weeds, minimize water evaporation, and keep roots cooler, apply a 2 to 4-inch-thick layer of organic material (use the larger amount for taller plants) under shrubs, trees, and vines and on flower and vegetable beds. To prevent crown rot on many of these, keep mulch several inches away from stems and trunks. Again, before you put out the mulch, you may want to apply a pre-emergent seedicide such as Preen to minimize weed seed germination and reduce subsequent weeding.
17. Thinning: To keep trees such as apples and pears from producing too much small fruit, remove some of the excess after ‘June drop’ (when trees spontaneously abort unpollinated fruit). Thin triple cluster to doubles and double cluster to singles. However, you may not want to thin at all if your tree is bearing lightly this year. Many were in bloom when we had wind and rain, and had many of the blossoms knocked off, as well as reducing the population of pollinators. Other kinds of fruit - especially Asian and European pears need heavy thinning in order to produce large fruit. Again, after your fruit trees have bloomed and the small fruits formed, you may want to thin them to increase fruit size and avoid crowding in clusters. Remember a highly productive tree is usually producing more fruit than you need, and having larger fruit may be more desirable. This year the best time will probably be during June but will depend upon which fruit trees you have.
18. Shape plants: Shape by pruning young or fast-growing trees, shrubs, and vines, but before you do much, be certain you know how to do this, otherwise consult a Sunset, Ortho or other reliable book covering the subject. This is particularly true of blooming perennials. Also, pinch or prune off poorly placed growth and any stems that are growing at an awkward angle. Cut back vigorous shoots to give the plant the shape and size you desire. Remove suckers arising from the roots.
19. Training: Now is the time to tie-up and train cane berries planted this past winter, and also almost any plant that needs to be trained on a trellis or other support.
20. Lawns: Following the late winter rains, lawns appeared green and showed vigorous growth as a result of the extensive rains and lightning produced ammonia fertilizer in the clouds. However, recently many of the lawns are yellow, showing the lack of adequate irrigation and fertilizing. Also, John Chiapelone says that it is time to aerate our lawns, because of the soil compaction the rains had produced. Some of these at these same green lawns, after several weeks of warm dry days, are still a beautiful green and others have large areas of yellowing turf. In the yellowing lawns, this is most likely areas of soil compaction. While these yellowing areas were receiving rain almost every day, the roots in these compacted areas were not suffering from lack of water. However later, these areas were relatively dry and the grass was short on water. Again, If you haven’t aerated your lawn, do it now. If the surface soil has dried out somewhat, irrigate, as it should be moist for the maximum depth of perforation. If your lawn is of any size, rent an aerator, or better yet hire it done. There are at least 2 reasons for doing this. Aeration of the turf’s root system is essential for healthy growth. Root tips of plants denied oxygen will die, and they are the primary vehicle for uptake of water and nutrients. Secondly, it should improve the depth of water penetration. If the water penetrates deeper, you shouldn’t have to water more often than once or twice a week. However clay soils with a slope present problems. If you have an irrigation timer, cut the irrigation time in half, and program your timer to come on a second time, possibly even a 3rd or 4th time after its first cycle is completed. Such lawns will usually require more frequent irrigation. Also, there is still time to re-seed bare spots.
21. Protect fruit crops: As fruit approaches maturity with early maturing varieties, you may need to use netting to cover the tree and protect fruit from birds, squirrels, etc. Such netting should be available at most nurseries. It needs to be secured so it doesn’t blow off the trees. However, I have no good suggestions for rodents and other critters that like fruit and can climb trees or jump from something adjacent. However, check with your nursery, there are several things available to curb many of these.
22. Fertilize: A.if you haven’t already started fertilizing, remember, April and May were peak use months because most plants produced some of their most active new growth then. Your plants do best when they get off to a good start and maintain such growth. B.Rain lightning and nitrogen:Almost without exception during fall, winter, and spring rains, lightning is associated with the rains. Very few people appreciate the fact that the rain contains nitrogen fertilizer. The lightning produces an ammonical form of nitrogen, which dissolves in the rain. Remember, the air contains about 80% N and the rain is water-H2O. Thus the rain ends up with a dilute solution of ammonium hydroxide NH4OH, which fertilizes the soil wherever it falls. The ammonium hydroxide solution is alkaline with a pH above 7-neutral. Here at 159 Los Robles in Burlingame, the soil is normally slightly acid, about 6.7-6.8. After the past storms, it has climbed up to about 8 in the soil. Then as the soil warms up, the ammonium form left is biologically converted by soil organisms from NH4OH which is alkaline > NO3 nitrate, which is acidic, and thus explains the changes in soil pH. C. The other part, as of the above is that as the soil warms up,the ammonical nitrogen is slowly biologically converted to a nitrate form of nitrogen. Nitrate forms of nitrogen are usually quite soluble, and leach (wash down) deeper into the soil and reduce their availability to plant roots. As such the ammonical nitrogen from the rain is probably the principal form of nitrogen available to the plant roots initially, but it is soon depleted, requiring the application of nitrogen fertilizer.
A balanced or a somewhat balanced fertilizer for specific plants is usually recommended, but in some cases, just N as ammonium sulfate may be adequate initially. Following winter rains some plants may be chlorotic (yellowish). This can mean deficiencies of nitrogen, iron, or other minor elements, and some root damage from water molds, or all of these. However, this year the initial yellowing may be due to the lack of nitrogen, and some plants can run out of nitrogen quickly. Apply just N as ammonium sulfate or a balanced fertilizer like 16-16-16 (NPK-nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium). Water-soluble fertilizer mixes, like Miracle Gro-All Purpose 18-24-16, which also includes minor elements, and when applied as foliar sprays, should be able to correct this. Some minor elements, like iron (Fe), may not be effectively extracted by the roots of many plants, particularly those with a reduced effective root systems or lacking mychorriza. For these, foliar sprays, using a product like Miracle Gro-All Purpose should be a preferred method. However, if you don’t do any other fertilizing, be certain your plants get some N from ammonium sulfate. Acid fertilizers are recommended for azaleas, camellias and rhododendrons. Ammonium sulfate is an acid fertilizer, but it only contains N. & S. Extensive use of any fertilizer high in N over a period of time will usually result in a slightly acid soil, favorable for these and most plants. You should fertilize most plants at least every 4 weeks while actively growing, unless you have used a slow release fertilizer. Most container plants, because of the leaching out of fertilizer (primarily N), should be fed twice a month. Again a slow release fertilizer used here should help and save you time. House plants-most should be watered at least twice a month and fertilized while watering at least once a month, or better yet a half strength solution every time you water. The use of time-release fertilizers, such as Osmocote, or Apex where practical should substantially reduce the frequency of fertilizing. Lawns need to be fertilized monthly, and ammonium sulfate (N) may be all that you need most of the time, particularly if you have been using one of the 2 different types of fertilizer herbicides like Scott’s Turf Builder Plus Halt’s Crabgrass Preventer to prevent germination of quack grass seed or Scott’s Turf Builder Plus 2 Weed Control for the control of broadleaf weeds, like dandelions. I found the best, easiest and least expensive way for me to fertilize with N alone was to use a siphon device which should be available at some nursery supply stores. Most bags of ammonium sulfate indicate the amount needed /1000 sq ft of lawn. I would add this amount to a bucket of water; and stir it until it is all dissolved. Then I would attach the siphon device onto the nearest faucet; and drop the intake tube into the bucket. On the end of the hose I would attach a rose sprinkler nozzle. I would then turn on the water-full, and walk back and forth the length of the lawn, covering a new strip each time. I used enough water to make 2-3 passes over the lawn. I would then turn on the sprinkler system to wash the fertilizer off the blades of grass. Otherwise, the fertilizer might burn the blades of grass.
23.Foliar Applied Fertilizers-Miracle Gro and similar products: If you have seen the TV commercials for Miracle-Gro All Purpose fertilizer, you will notice that their applications usually include applications with a garden hose spraying the product using their applicator. This is probably the most efficient way to apply such water soluble fertilizers. The fertilizer can be easily absorbed by the leaves, particularly the new leaves, and because the fertilizer is diluted with the water from the hose, it doesn’t burn the foliage.
24. Pest & Disease Control: A. Each winter’s-weather usually produces some changes, and can produce variations in the normal populations of pests. It can produce population changes of both damaging insects and beneficial ones, some fewer, others more plentiful. It seems that each year’s weather is somewhat abnormal, and this season has been definitely no exception, inf fact it was in the early 1900’s that we had weather like this. Your stone-fruit trees may have been in bloom during periods of rain and wind. This may have knocked off the blossoms and adversely affected bee population and pollination. Our neighbor’s apricot is completely devoid of apricots this year. On the other hand most of our apples, and pears, were in bloom under favorable weather conditions, and pollination was dependent upon the population of pollinators. Our Navel orange bloomed after the rains and appears to have had sufficient pollination, but many blooms were not pollinated, suggesting a reduced bee population. The unpollinated ones will shed in the June drop. I haven’t checked my pear tree for fire-blight strikes. My experience in Burlingame, is that It usually occurs mainly on the late bloom. The bacterium responsible for the disease is accidentally picked up and transmitted from an infected blossom to a healthy one when the bees or other pollinators are pollinating. Again, in my case this usually occurs on the late bloom.
B. Aphids- As temperatures warm-up some aphid species on roses normally terminates. This may be due in part to the normal buildup of parasites and predators. Probably the most effective are tiny wasps that inject their eggs into the aphids, and when the eggs hatch the young worms feed internally on the aphid, ultimately killing it. Sometimes when you see the cast skins of the aphids, there will be a tiny hole showing where the wasp exited. However, if you did not apply one of the 2 different Bayer products (2-in-I Systemic Rose & Flower Care, or All-in One, Rose & Flower Care) on your roses, and the aphid population is still heavy and doing extensive damage you may want to treat them with Bayer’s new Rose & Flower Insect Killer. It comes in a ready to use plastic spray bottle. It was completely effective for me. . Aphids on roses and other plants feed exclusively on the tender new growth. As such you only need to apply it to that growth. Other species of aphids and other similar insects are active on certain plants, especially trees during the summer and fall. The damage usually appears as distorted new growth. Also, remember the presence of ants moving up and down your plants usually indicates aphids, scale or other sucking insects. The ants are feeding on honeydew that most of these insects produce. Cars parked under certain trees during the summer can have the aphid honey-dew deposited on them, which can even damage the paint if it isn’t a ‘baked enamel’ type. Some recommend the control of ants to slow the population increase. I value their presence on infested plants. Their presence tells me that I probably have a sucking insect problem that I have not observed. After a successful treatment I find the ant population is negligible, and that I have probably done a good job of controlling them. Bayer’s, Tree and Shrub Insect Control is worth evaluating if you have one of these problems. It has many advantages over conventional applications of other insecticides. First, it has probably one of the most active and safest systemic insecticides available for the home gardener. It is applied as a drench to the root system, and systemically moves through the entire plant. I would expect most to move into the most active growth. Because there are more roots in the area of the drip line, I would expect that area to be the most efficient place to drench the root system. Also, I would not expect this treatment to affect most predators and parasites of the pest insects. The presence of honeydew exuded by a sucking insect, usually results in the development of a black sooty-mold fungus. C. Scale and other sucking insects: These feed like aphids and when they produce grubs become excessive. Again one of the Bayer systemic insecticide products, should be effective.
D. Codling moth sprays for apples & pears-. (I will add what John Chiapelone recommends at our meeting.)
E. Spittle bugs, a sucking insect- These should be about over. In most cases their numbers are few and you can pick them off with a toothpick or something similar. Also, wherever you have used Bayer’s 2-In-1 or All-in-One Rose and Flower Care you shouldn’t have a problem. F. Slugs and Snails- Apply baits as needed, or hand pick them at night, to keep them from getting out of hand, but possibly a somewhat better control strategy is to bait those highly shaded and protected areas, where they usually reside during the hot and sunny part of the day.
G. Earwigs: Earwig baits give very effective control. Actually their damage to plants in my garden appears to have been negligible, except when I put out seedlings. When they are present, there are usually also snails, and the combination can be devastating. They devour many of the seedlings, particularly those in close proximity to their home during the daylight hours. .Again, bait those areas where they like snails reside during the warmer and sunnier periods.
H. Fuchsia mites: (an eriophyid mite, not a spider mite) if present it should be starting to damage the growing tips of your fuchsias. This is expressed as a thick, distorted, off-color reddish new growth. First try cutting or pinching back about 1/2 inch beyond the conspicuous damage. Currently I know of no effective insecticide except “Sun Oil-Ultra Fine Horticultural Oil. I. Mites (spider mites): If you have these, they usually start appearing about now and may require control with a spray oil or miticide. However, they don’t reproduce well in wet or cool weather and may be delayed. J. Thrips: Thrip damaged leaves of rhododendron appear sickly, speckly and have a slimy greenish white cast and the buds may shrivel up. The above Bayer products listed in H above are recommended and should be effective against thrips. K. Lawn moths and Grubs: lawn moths will penetrate deeper into the soil below the sod where the grubs are normally present and present a challenge. Raccoons feed on earthworms, lawn moth larvae and lawn grubs. In severe cases, they will actually roll back the sod. Apply Ortho Bug-B-Gone
25. Automatic Irrigation systems: If you haven’t already done so, your automatic irrigation system should be checked out carefully for leaks, breaks, and plugged line strainers. The leaks should be repaired and the plugged line strainers cleaned. Plants growing outdoors in soil normally should be irrigated 1-3 times a week dependent upon sun, shade, temperature, and soil. Also the length of irrigation may start low
at the beginning of the season, but should be increased as it warms up.
26. Watering house plants: Plants vary as to their watering needs. A. Many foliage plants have somewhat waxy and/or smooth leaves that usually do not transpire as much water. These need not be watered as often, and with some, too much watering may bring on a water mold root disease problem, that can kill, or at least weaken them if water molds are present in the soil. If the soil is not contaminated, there is no reason the potting soil shouldn’t be used again. However it might be better spread around plants growing outside. Special note, most foliage plants will flower, but the flowers are usually small. As such they can usually be placed in corners and away from windows. Some even dislike the greater temperature variations that occur when placed close to windows. Benjamin ficus is one of the best examples of this. I have had one in the darkest area of the dining room for more that 5 years, and in all that time loss of any foliage has been negligible. Also, it is watered about once a week, and I haven’t fertilized it. At most it may have only doubled in size, without loosing its beautiful foliage.
B. Flowering plants usually require more water, but there can be considerable variation depending upon the type and quantity of leaves and growth rate. The more vigorous the plant, the more water they usually consume. The same plants exposed to more light, will usually require more water. When your furnace is on during the winter months, it will usually produce a drier atmosphere, and plants usually require more frequent watering. In any case, your own experience will be the best guide as to the frequency of watering. In most cases, you will need to have a saucer, or equivalent under each container. I strongly urge you to use the double saucer method when watering. When you water, it is usually best to water from the top with a small plastic watering can, however with some plants this can be difficult. Normally you should use sufficient water to have some water still in the saucer a few hours after watering. By so doing, you will be assured that your pots are fully watered, and top watering will have leached most of the salts from the container (both trace salts from the water and fertilizer salts). Failure to do this can result in an accumulation of salts, which can produce leaf burn. I recommend that you use the double saucer method of irrigating your house plants: Basically this system uses 2 plastic saucers, with one inside the other. The inner saucer is about 1 inch larger than the bottom of the plant pot. The outer saucer is usually 1 inch larger than the inner saucer, and its purpose is only to catch any water that might overflow the inner saucer. The saucers are available in 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 inch and larger sizes in nurseries, even drug stores that sell plants. Also there are several newer plastic saucers and special pads to set on your tables. This system for irrigation has many advantages. Usually a small plastic irrigation can is best for adding the water. Also it is best to add a water soluble fertilizer like Schultz’s, 10-15-10, Plant Food plus, every time you water. In every case, you are likely to need to have a saucer, or equivalent under each container, and a second larger saucer as a ‘safety’ to catch any excess water that might run over. When you water, you should add or periodically add fertilizer, such as Schultz’s to the water as they prescribe. There are 2 ways to water, either from the top with a small watering can if the soil surface is a ¼ to ½ inch below the lip of the pot. If the soil is flush with the top of the pot, a bottom irrigation where the water can sub up into the pot will usually be necessary. If the soil is dry or somewhat dry, much of the water applied to the surface soil may flush through, and not thoroughly wet the soil. When this occurs it is best to add water to the inner saucer and let it sub up into the pot. Normally you should continue to refill until some water remains in the saucer after 30 minutes. In any case, after this, dump the water that is in the saucer. By so doing, you will be assured that your pots are fully watered. Occasionally you may need to leach surface salts (usually fertilizer salts) from the container, by placing them in the sink and slowly run the water over the top. Failure to do so can result in an accumulation of salts, which can produce a marginal leaf burn. Using a double saucer system, the outer saucer is a safety net for excess water, and works well with some containers. Also, many of the potted plants you buy today have the soil filled to the top of the pot, and surface watering is usually nearly impossible. In which case, fill the inner double saucer, and refill until no more water subs up into the pot. Then dump the excess water from the inner saucer. Moisture, pH, and light meters: I recommend that you use a moisture meter to assess when water is needed. These are available at stores like Orchard Supply and Hardware for about $5-$12. Most flowering plants require sufficient indirect light to promote and maintain bloom. (See 30 below, and use a light meter to identify the proper placement of flowering plants). Most houseplants need 250 or more footcandles for good and frequent blooming.
27. Watering outdoors-planter boxes, pots, hanging baskets: Watering can be tricky, as the amount needed can vary with each specific plant. Coupled with this is their location, the size of the container, the depth of rooting, and the planting mix used. A. Hanging baskets, during the warmer months, may need to be watered twice a day, and especially twice a day when it is hot. In some cases even more frequently. B. Container/potted plants if in shallow containers in the sun require much the same scheduling. C. Larger containers and plants with deeper roots can be watered less frequently. Again in every case, use enough water to have about 5-10% of it drain out the bottom of the pot or container to moisten the entire container, to leach out salts, and avoid their accumulation.
28. Potting mixes to use: These can vary considerably as to materials used in the mix, and percentages of each used. Some are made specifically for African violets, cactus mix, etc. However some are better than others and your experience and reports of others should be useful. Usually the major differences are the water holding capacities of each mix. However in the past few years there has been an extensive expansion of new formulations and producers of such products. Because there are so many new ones and they differ, it is a good idea to keep records of your experience with each. Previously McLellan’s Supersoil had been the preferred potting mix by many, including myself. It contains some nutrients, but no slow-release fertilizers. Recently Scott’s Miracle-Gro, Schultz’s and others have entered the potting mix market, and most include controlled release fertilizers and can be expected to substantially improve plant growth and flowering. In most cases avoid what is termed a planting mix, which is different than a potting mix. This is usually just soil, with at most some nutrients added, and possibly a little compost. It is usually practical for deeper planter boxes, but not pots, except for the very large, deep containers.
29. Pots: Generally, the smaller plastic pots are preferred over clay pots, because the soil doesn’t dry out as fast. Also, in the smaller pots the greater warmth of the plastic pots initially allows faster root development. There is an ever increasing selection of pots, especially the plastic in sizes and shapes. Decorative ceramic pots for hiding the clay and plastic pots have also expanded greatly. Also p11 below, you will see the opportunities that black plastic pots allow sun loving plants to grow in shady areas
30. Monitoring moisture levels, pH and light: Unless you are an expert at detecting adequate soil moisture (I’m not), don’t rely on common recommendation of feeling the soil. There is such a variation in potting mixes used for potted plants these days that using feeling moist can be deceiving (however meaningful readings in some potting soils can be misleading. My favorite for moisture testing is a soil moisture meter with a small single rod probe, such as available at Orchard Supply & Hardware. With a single probe it is easier to penetrate the soil in most potted house-plants and especially compacted soils outside. The probe costs 7.99 at OSH. For 10.99, you can get a meter with 2 probes, which measures moisture, soil pH and light. Measuring the amount of light that each plant receives can be helpful in identifying locations with sufficient diffused light for good blooming of most houseplants. I prefer to have both meters, so with the double probe unit, I can measure the soil’s pH (acidity [1 to 6+] [7neutral], alkalinity [7+ to14]) when it seems advisable, and also measure light intensity in various locations within the house, as well as shady areas in the yard. As you are well aware, plants differ in the amount of light they need and in which they do best. There are the shade loving plants and those requiring full sun for several hours, like roses need at least 6 hours of direct sunlight for adequate growth and bloom. I will discuss pH and specific light requirements at a later date.
Pam Pierce-Golden Gate Gardener
SF Chronicle 3/1/08
TOMATOES
Abstract of part of the 1st article
There are some permanent obstacles to good tomato growing. What the plants want is sun all day (or for a minimum of six hours-[somewhat comparable to roses]), daytime temperatures between 75 and 95 degrees, and nighttime temperatures above 55 degrees. But near the coast, they must endure summer daytime temperatures that barely skim 70, long periods of fog, and nights that may drop
below 55 degrees.
The cool temperatures and, on foggy days, low light, slow plant growth, so that the first ripe fruits may occur much later than the “days to maturity” (DTM) listed in the catalog, and they may be thicker-skinned and less flavorful.
The cold nights pose a special problem because tomato pollen can’t fertilize the flowers if nights are colder than 55 degrees, so we often see less fruit than there were flowers.
Location can make as much difference as neighborhood.
Abstract of part of the second article by Pam Pierce in the Chronicle
“Early Girl”, true to its name, ripened earlier. It also produced much more heavily, and earned the rating “very good” for flavor, “Stupice” rated “very good” for flavor but was even earlier and more productive.
Abstract of parts of a third tomato article by Lynette Evans, Editor for the Home & Garden section of the SF Chronicle
Master gardeners in several Bay Areas counties test tomato varieties, those most relevant are Marin and San Mateo. Last summer, San Mateo County master gardeners did some preliminary test in two sites: a windy site in Half Moon Bay about a block from the ocean, and at their Elkus Youth Ranch, a more protected site a couple of miles inland.
As with San Mateo, they recommended the orange cherry “Sungold” which placed first in their tomato testing competition. And reflecting my own results, they suggest ‘Early Girl’ and ‘Stupice’
Weed control with Ortho’s Brush B Gone,
I have had several inquiries regarding the best method to control obnoxious perennial plants like wild blackberries, poison oak, and others. I have been very successful over many years using a modification of the system used by power companies to control growth of trees growing under power lines in forested areas. Using wild blackberries as an example: With loppers, prune each cane down to about 3-4 inches above the soil. Then apply undiluted Ortho’s Brush B Gon with a regular paint brush small enough to dip into the can of Brush B Gone. Paint all of the cut stubs on the cut surface and down the sides to about 2 inches above the soil to avoid soil on your brush..
BLACK PLASTIC CONTAINERS FOR ROSES, ETC.
Two year ago, John Chiapelone, a retired nurseryman, assisting me in my SIRS Garden group, said in one of our recent meetings that he had used black plastic containers in his nursery to display plants in shady spots. He did this because the warm daytime air increased the soil temperature within the black pot, and that the roots of plants in general do best in warm soil. The warmest soil is adjacent to the black plastic and diminishes as you move toward the center. If you take a plant out of a 1 gallon black plastic pot you will most likely find the roots had been growing right up against the black plastic and few if any in the center.
In January, 2009, I purchased 8 black plastic 5-gallon potted roses for Fran’s sunny backyard. I temporarily placed them in the least windy spot in the yard, which in June and July only receives about 2-3 hours of sun per day, and these were to be planted later in her sunny west facing backyard. I later planted 4 of them in the sunny area after removing 4 less desirable roses, and potted them also in 4 5 gallon black plastic pots and placed them with the remaining 4 new roses. At the time, I wasn’t aware of the value of the above aspect of heat on black plastic pots. However, it is now quite evident in the area where I had placed the roses. These rose bushes grew well and continued to grow and produce numerous new buds and beautiful full size blooms. They completed 3 series of extensive blooms. Initially, the roses that I planted in the soil with her other roses were considerably behind those in the black containers. As the warm weather warmed up, those in the soil caught up. The plastic pots don’t have to be black, but black absorbs the most heat.
We are now into the second year, and the roses in the shady area are growing better than they did last year. Of course the established roses growing in the sun have done much better as we expected, but the black plastic pot gives you an opportunity to have roses and other sun-loving plants growing in shady spots.
Also, something we had not considered was that the roses in the 5 gallon black plastic containers are just opposite Fran’s kitchen sink and on the side that gets about 2-3 hours sun in June & July. Most roses require at least 6 hours of direct sun to bloom well, but she then had 8 beautiful blooming roses that she can enjoy many times a day when she is standing at the kitchen sink. When I make the coffee in the morning, and I open the blinds I am able see how well the roses are doing.
This year we reviewed Regan’s listing of about 1000 varieties in their catalogue and selected and purchased 4 more roses. We placed them in this shady area for evaluation, and they appear to be excellent varieties for replacement of poor varieties now in Fran’s sunny rose garden
Previously, I have had roses in black plastic 5-gallon containers as long as 4 years, before they were finally planted in the soil. In every case, when they were finally planted in the soil they took off and continued to bloom and grow very well.
Another example was that Fran had moved a blooming gardenia plant from her previous Millbrae home and planted it in the soil at her current home also in Millbrae, and next to a northeast facing wall of her home. The gardenia had never bloomed in 42 years, since it was moved. Following Chiapelone’s recommendation that gardenias require heat to bloom, I transplanted the gardenia plant into a black plastic 10 gallon container because the root system was extensive, and placed it about 3 feet from its previous location. It gets the same amount of sun. After 2 months, it had 50-60 flower buds.
All of these potted plants required that I expand my irrigation system and establish new water lines, with individual lines to each pot. This has taken a considerable amount of time. However, having plants on a good watering schedule is the most essential aspect of growing the best plants.
Plants vary as to their light, heat and other requirements but most that we plant in our gardens and yards prefer heat and light. Using a black plastic pot (1, 2, 5 gallons and larger) can potentially expand your selection of plants you choose for shady areas if planted in black plastic containers. I suspect that you have a few places in your yard where you might be able to evaluate and enjoy this feature.
I asked John where he learned about this use of black plastic pots, but he didn’t recall. I know that in all of my various reviews of the literature and a variety of numerous searches of a wide selection of articles, I have never seen any mention of this concept. Of course, there is far more literature out there that I haven’t reviewed. However, what disturbs me is that none of the popular articles written in our newspapers, magazines, etc. to the best of my memory have never once mentioned this concept. I consider this an extremely valuable tool and guide for plant selections by the home gardener.
What this suggests is that it takes about 6 hours of sunshine for the soil to heat up sufficiently for the roses to bloom properly, whereas in the black plastic container, it occurs in a relatively short time.
I challenge you to help me further evaluate this concept and keep me informed of your results. After all, my experience with this concept only started in February 2009 and things could change with time, but results to date are extremely encouraging and justify further evaluation.
Also, John Chiapelone and I have had extremely good tomato plant growth and production using this method.
Harold Lembright- draft 5/20/10
Rain, Lightning, Nitrogen and Fertilization
Almost without exception during fall, winter, and spring rains, lightning is associated with the rains. Very few people appreciate the fact that the rain contains nitrogen fertilizer. The lightning produces an ammonical form of nitrogen, which dissolves in the rain. Remember, the air contains about 80% N and the rain is water-H2O. Thus the rain ends up with a dilute solution of ammonium hydroxide NH4OH, which fertilizes the soil wherever it falls. The ammonium hydroxide solution is alkaline with a pH above 7-neutral. Here at 159 Los Robles in Burlingame, the soil is normally slightly acid, about 6.7-6.8. After the past storms, it has climbed up to about 8 in the soil. Then as the soil warms up, the ammonium hydroxide is biologically converted by soil organisms from NH4OH which is alkaline > NO3 which is acidic.
The other part of the above is that in warm soils most of the ammonical nitrogen has been converted to a nitrate form of nitrogen. Nitrate forms of nitrogen are usually quite soluble, and leach (wash down) deeper into the soil and reduce their availability to plant roots. As such the ammonical nitrogen from the rain is probably the principal form of nitrogen available to the plant roots initially, but it is soon depleted, requiring the application of nitrogen fertilizer.