This is the beginning of the second year where I am including a Table of Contents for June in Your Garden. I trust that it will continue to save you considerable time by allowing you to review only those subjects that interest you. I maintain copies of the last 12-18 Months in Your Garden in a 3-ring binder. With a Table of Contents for each month, it should be easier to locate information in previous issues of Month in Your Garden.
SIR’S BRANCH #1 GARDENING GROUP
June in Your Garden 5/16/07
Table of Contents
Page #
1 1. Summer flowers to plant
1 2. Perennials to plant
1 3. Foliage plants (fillers):
1 4. Bulbs to plant
1 5. Roses
2 6. Low maintenance shrubs:
2 7. Plants in pots (outdoors) to include hanging baskets Hanging baskets
2 8. Vegetables
2 9. Melons
2 10. Fruit trees & Citrus to plant
3 11. Planting tips for dahlias
3 12. Time to Propagate using cuttings.
3 13. Time to divide irises
3 14. Pinching-to encourage new growth of azaleas, fuchsias, geraniums and mafguerites.
3 15. Grooming: A. Rhododendrons B. Azaleas. C. Camellias D. Roses- E. Remove
suckers from trees F. Groom and feed spring bulbs G. Stake tall plants: floppy flowers, dahlias,
gladiolas and others.
4 16. Mulching-water conservation, weed suppression, and keeping roots cool.
4 17. Thinning-apples and other fruit
4 18. Shape plants-pruning young or fast growing trees, shrubs and vines.
4 19. Training-cane berries and other trellised plants.
4 20. Lawns-soil compaction and turf aeration..
4 21. Protect fruit crops-from birds, squirrels, etc..
4 22. Fertilize-house plants and lawns
5 23. Foliar Applied Fertilizers-value of method.
5 24. Pest & Disease Control- A. weather effect on control. B. Aphids- C. Scale and other sucking
insects: D. Codling moth sprays for apples & pears. E. Spittle bugs F. Slugs & Snails G. Earwigs
H. Fuchsia mites I. Mites. J. Thrips. K. Lawn problems
6 25. Automatic Irrigation systems-check, clean, adjust frequency and time.
6 26. Watering house plants:. A. foliage plants amounts, frequency, fertilizing, etc. B. flowering plants-
water & light requirements,
7 27. Watering out doors-planter boxes, pots, and hanging baskets.
7 28. Potting mixes to use-there are many new ones, with many variations in their contents and their
special contributions to plant growth.
7 29. Pots-an expanded selection of plastic, clay and ceramic pots. .
7 30. Monitoring moisture levels, pH and light with meters for the best growth and flowering of plants.:
7 31. Pollination & Bees-
Article on Page 8 of June in Your Garden-- 2007
Container gardening fits any size spot SF Chronicle, June 8, 2
SIR’S BRANCH #1 GARDENING GROUP
JUNE IN YOUR GARDEN
Revised 5/16/07
For maximum use of the following information that might be of interest to you, review the Table of Contents. Most probably don’t have time to study this in detail, just review those sections listed in the Table of Contents and most useful to you. Highlight those plants you wish to plant and other chores that need to be done. You may notice several sections that were covered last month, but are still somewhat applicable for June. Also, your own experience should always be considered in your choices of what and how you do things.
If you would like copies of references indicated below, contact me and I will copy them for you. Also, I have many articles on a wide variety of plants on file, and again I would be glad to supply you a copy.
You will frequently see me referring to OSH (Orchard Supply and Hardware); I go there because it is more convenient. It is near our markets, our banks, etc that we visit frequently. The quality of their plants is generally very good when they first arrive, and they do have a guarantee policy, but you should have your purchase receipt.
Plant: Summer flowers:(those followed with LS should be planted in light shade), Buy and plant 6 packs (preferably small pony packs where available) of Ageratum, Celosia argentea (cockscomb), Coreopsis spp., Cosmos spp., catmint (Nepeta cataria), Dahlia spp, Diascia spp., fibrous rooted begonias LS, Gaillardia spp., globe amaranth (Gomphrena spp.), Impatiens (usually Impatiens wallerana) LS (if you have spots that are sunnier- try the New Guinea hybrids, they are more heat tolerant), Lobelia (usually Lobelia erinus?) LS, Madagascar periwinkle (Vinca rosea), marigold (Tagetes spp.), Nicotiana sylvestris, Penstemon spp., perennial statice (Limoniun, usually L perezii), petunias (Petunia. hybrida), Phlox spp. (see June ’98 Sunset, p 58), Portulaca grandiflora, Salvia spp. (sages-see June ’98 Sunset, p58 for suggestions), Sanvitalia procumbens, sunflower (Helianthus spp.), sweet alyssum (Lobularia maritima), Tithonia rotundifolia (Mexican sunflower), Torenia fournieri, Verbena spp. and Zinnia spp. Note: this is usually the best month to plant zinnias- The Peter Pan variety has proven best for me. If properly watered and fertilized it grows fast enough for new growth to cover many of the faded blooms, requiring less removal of faded blooms. This hybrid doesn’t produce seed, and continues to grow and flower into the fall. Then in a matter of a few weeks, it goes from traces of powdery mildew to most of the plants showing it severely. As such, I have no hesitancy to pull them out, spread ammonium sulfate or a 16-16-16 NPK mix, spade the soil at least 6 inches deep, and plant my winter flowers. I used to plant Iceland poppies, but for the lack of time, I am now letting my Greek poppy seed take over.
Perennials to plant: consider geraniums (actually Pelargonium spp.). Plant Bougainvillea brasiliensis, B. spectabilis and Hibiscus rosea-sinensis, in as frost-free sunny exposure area as available. You might want to try dwarf crape myrtles (see Sunset-June ’97). Also, you might wish to consider planting Alstroemeria aurantiaca (Peruvian lily, which you will find is one of the best cut flowers for your dining room table. It has an excellent vase life, of 1 or more weeks. If you have a ‘cutting garden’ or frequently cut flowers to display in your home, Alstroemeria should be a must. The taller growing varieties are best for cut flowers. It is probably the most common cut flower used on your table in a restaurant and is chosen just for that reason as well as being very attractive. The relatively new Calibrochia (not in the 1998 Sunset Western Garden Book) also known as Million Bells is a petunia relative. These are now in most of our nurseries. They do very well in the relatively shallow flower bowl pots, when placed in direct sun. I would suggest that you use one of the new potting mixes. If they don’t contain a controlled release fertilizer, I would suggest that mix in a controlled release fertilizer. If your flower bowl is shallow, it is best to water them daily. I have had very good luck growing them, but they have always been in shallow pots. Never use a planting mix only a potting mix in a shallow bowl.
Foliage plants (fillers): artemisias, dusty miller, and golden, purple, or tricolor sage.
Bulbs: continue to plant gladiolus every 2-3 weeks to extend the flowering season into fall, and plant other summer bulbs, tuberous begonias LS, dahlias, Crocosmia crocosomiiflora also known as Tritonia crocosomiiflora (montbretia), and Tigridia pavonia (tiger or Mexican shell flower) and others.
Roses: I have observed and priced right, good roses in 2 & 5 gallon containers at most nurseries, but variety selection is usually limited. If you are interested I am including in our post meeting amended copy of June in Your Garden, several attachments of pertinent rose articles that should help you select the best varieties. Also, if you don’t want to treat for black spot, rust and powdery mildew review these articles I have attached that cover disease resistant varieties. This past rainy period demonstrated the susceptibility of many of the old favorites. If you haven’t applied your controlled release fertilizer, alfalfa pellets, and Bayer’s 2-in-1 Rose and Flower Care, do it now. Also, if you don’t already have mulch under your roses, it is a good idea. Spread 3-4 inches of bark or other mulching materials under rose bushes to help conserve water and keep roots cool. Before you spread the mulch, you can save yourself some time weeding, if you spread a pre-emergent herbicide like Preen before you spread the mulch. Keep the mulch away from the trunks.
Low maintenance shrubs: Consider blue hibiscus (Alyogyne huegelii), Cape mallow (Anisodontea spp.), Cape plumbago (Plumbago auriculata), Ceanothus spp. (wild lilac), Euphorbia spp., feathery cassia (Cassia artemisioides), flax hybrids (Linum spp.), Jerusalem sage (Salvia spp.??), lavender Lavendula spp.), rockrose (Cistus spp.), Russian sage (Perovskia abrotanoides-‘blue spire’) and tree mallow (Lavatera spp.).
Plants in pots (outdoors): Now is a good time to start many different plants in pots. However, I have several points of caution. First if you have had no experience with a specific plant, check its growing prerequisites in the Sunset Western Garden Book. It specifies the climate zones, the amount of sun and water needed. Most other similar references may be for the entire U.S. in general and they don’t take into considerations our different winter/spring climate. ‘Ortho’ books are good references for many items, but they are written for the U.S. in general. After following all of the many recommendations found in the Sunset book there are other considerations, many of which are covered in some of the other Sunset books. Most potted plants in 1, 2 and sometimes 5 gallon containers require watering daily, and during hot days may require watering twice a day. Your failure to do this is likely to result in dead plants or at least them being set back drastically. Hanging baskets usually require even more frequent watering. If you are home almost every day and you enjoy hand watering, you may not need an automatic irrigation system. However, if you are gone a lot and are very busy an automatic irrigation system is usually the best system for both outdoor pots and hanging baskets. However, even an automatic system needs to be checked periodically to be certain it is functioning properly. If you are watering properly, and have chosen the proper location in the yard for your plant, then a good potting mix and a good fertilization schedule is advisable. Mixes that drain well usually do best. The best potting mix (soil) is something you should explore. Previously McLellan’s Supersoil containing fertilizer was considered the best. However, the new Miracle-Gro, and Schultz mixes and many others contain a slow release fertilizer, but they may not be adequate for the entire season. Thus, toward the end of the season you may choose to apply Miracle-Gro’ All Purpose water soluble fertilizer or its equivalent. It can be applied in an irrigation application, or sprayed on the plants. Also, some of the new potting mixes have polymers added that absorb and retain more water, but from which the plant roots can extract the water See Fertilizing 22. below.
Vegetables: plant beans, beets, carrots, chard, corn, cucumbers, eggplant, melons, okra, peppers, pumpkins, squash, and tomatoes, (actually most vegetables). Sow successive crops of beets, bush beans, carrots, corn, chard, lettuce and radishes. Tomatoes: (Burlingame Garden Center in the past has recommended the best tomatoes for the peninsula, March-April, 2000) Early Girl-earliest to bear, best tomato in our area. Ace-the best all purpose. Brandywine-excellent heirloom tomato. Produces meaty, real tomato tasting fruit. Beefmaster & Better Boy-best in hot areas. Celebrity-large fruit, takes about 80 days. Good tasting. Champion-large fruit, early producer. Cherry Red Cherry & Sweet 100-good in salads and hors d’oeuvres. Patio-excellent in containers. Red Pear Roma-great for sauces. San Francisco Fog-thick skinned fruit, but will produce in cool temperatures. Yellow Pear-good for cooking and preserving. Oregon Spring-early tomato for cool summer seasons, exceptionally fine flavor and succulence. However, remember you are growing these for your own enjoyment of vine ripened fruit, and your specific tastes should be your basis for selection. Also varieties can differ in production and quality from one season to another. It usually takes a few years to ascertain that your ranking is not based on a very good or poor year. If you haven’t evaluated the various varieties, perhaps this it the time to do so. You might want to join forces with your neighbor or friend and plant several varieties for your evaluation. Train your tomatoes, preferably with supports, that keep the fruit off the ground. These are generally available at nurseries such Orchard Supply & Hardware. Filoli in their employee garden make 6 foot, 6”x6” wire mesh cylinders, at least 24 inches in diameter, and use one 5’ rebar per cylinder to keep each upright.
Melons: Now your soil should be thoroughly warm, and newly planted melon seedlings should thrive. In our climate choose short-season varieties that ripen in 65 to 75 days. If you have a cool spell, you may be able to improve growth by planting seed or plants through holes cut in clear plastic. Use clear plastic not black, to maximize the greenhouse effect of sunlight passing through the film, it heats the soil during the day and retains much of it at night.
Fruit trees: Citrus-it is still time to plant these, but select your varieties carefully as sour oranges and grapefruit are not generally desirable, particularly when you can buy good sweet citrus at your market. However, citrus is probably the one fruit that most robbers like squirrels and birds seem to leave alone. I observed this citrus in both this area and the Palm Springs area of California. When you plant citrus, follow the advice of a reputable nurseryman in selecting varieties for your area. I have had excellent results with Algerian (Clementine) tangerine here in Burlingame. It usually ripens from November to December, the fruit is sweet, juicy, relatively seedless, and can remain on the tree for months. You may have to check several nurseries to obtain one. I plan to plant one at Fran’s as soon as we have time and the spot is ready. Many, if not most of the citrus can remain on the tree several months after they ripen and still retain their quality.
Planting tips: large dahlias need warm, properly prepared soil to get off to a good start (May-best). Dig holes 12 inches deep and 10-12 inches across. Fill the bottom 6” with good soil; lay the tuber on its side with the eye up.
Propagate: May and early June are some of the best times to propagate cuttings. The May 1996 Sunset, pp 82, 83 had an excellent article on this. Suggestions from earlier Sunset articles suggested the following. Take 3-5 inch cuttings of carnations & dianthus, and 2-3 inches of fuchsias. With pelargoniums (geraniums) or marguerites at least 2 inches of new tip growth. Generally, tip cuttings are best. Most of the softwood cuttings like geraniums do not need to be dipped into a rooting compound. I use damp sand in old, but clean 6 packs or other containers, and insert cuttings into a hole about 1 inch deep, punched with a pencil. Other plants for propagation include chrysanthemum, hydrangea, lantana, lavender and roses (miniatures). Cuttings from camellia, azalea, rhododendron and other hardwood plants as well as certain softwood cuttings, do best with a misting system or something comparable usually do best. There are various small plastic containers with covers that simulate a greenhouse. The best cuttings are taken from the new growth, which develops following the blooming period. With azaleas, camellias, and rhododendrons, each cutting should be about 3-5 inches long and have at least 2 nodes or leaf joints. I remove the lower leaves from the cutting and on the base, I strip off the bark about1/16 wide and ¾ in long on opposite sides. I use my thumb and an opposite fingernail to do this. This only removes the outer ‘bark’ of the cutting. After dipping the base in a rooting hormone, I tap off the excess, insert the cutting into a pre-punched hole about 1 inch deep in a damp coarse mixture of sand and peat moss. A 50:50 mix is usually best. I put this mixture in old, but clean 6 packs or other containers, and place them under my greenhouse misting system. Without a misting system and using various other methods you can still obtain acceptable rooting of your cuttings. Incidentally, there are 2 different chemicals used as rooting hormones. I suspect there are different plants for which one works better than the other. If you do considerable propagation, you might want to compare them.
Dividing: Irises are best divided after they bloom. It is recommended that most bearded iris varieties be dug and replanted every 2-3 years. If you have problems with their failure to bloom after a few years you may want to try this.
Pinching: To encourage branching on azaleas, fuchsias, geraniums and marguerites, pinch out the growing tips of new shoots. Also pinch out leaf and flower buds on small 6 packs of marigolds, petunias and tall zinnias. This is just another reason to buy pony packs with healthy but small non-blooming plants.
Grooming: A. For more blooms on rhododendrons next year, gently snap off blooms as they fade. However, better than snapping is to use small pruning shears such as Marita Taber does, to avoid damaging the tiny leaf buds below the flower cluster. Study several of these faded blooms, and closely observe where the new growth will occur, and cut or snap above them. These small buds represent upcoming summer growth and next year’s flower buds. If damaged, they usually result in tips that don’t have flowers next season. Also, if you haven’t pruned and shaped your rhododendrons, they may becoming rather large, likely rather leggy and straggly. John Chiapelone recommends that you prune it back and shape it. When pruning, cut about ¼ inch above a node pointing in the direction that new growth is desired. When in bloom next year it should be a more impressive blooming shrub. B. Remove faded flowers from azaleas. C. Also, with Camellias-because of petal blight, continue to remove all blighted (brown/dark blooms) from both the plant and from the ground. The fungus responsible for this disease develops in these blighted blossoms, which ultimately fall to the ground. Infected blooms on the ground, produce spores (like tiny seeds), which are shot into the air, landing on the new blooms where infection occurs. After bloom is the best time to prune and shape most any blooming perennial, shrub tree, etc. D. Roses- Also check and remove new growth (suckers) coming up from the rootstock. The suckers usually grow rather tall, with a single terminal bud frequently 2-3 feet above the soil. Their foliage is usually slightly different, and is the foliage of the rootstock. However, there are several different rose varieties that are used as rootstocks and may have differing foliage. These suckers originate below the bud union, usually just above or below the soil surface. If left to grow, they can “take over” and eliminate the variety that you purchased. On hybrid teas and grandiflora roses, snip off faded blooms ¼ inch above the first leaf (from top) with five leaflets. For a long-stemmed rose, cut just above the second leaf with five leaflets. Also, remember leaving dead roses on the bush can produce two adverse effects on growth 1) the “hips” (seed) that form use up much of the plant’s energy during their formation, slowing plant growth and 2) many seed producing plants regard this as the end of their blooming season, and quit blooming. Native plants produce seed, to perpetuate the species, go into semi-dormancy and quit blooming so they can start building up food reserves for next spring. E. Remove suckers from trees- these leafy, straight; fast-growing shoots, again are found growing from the rootstock, and compete for water and nutrients. Such suckers are also common on fruit trees, flowering trees, many trees, roses, and shrubs. In most cases, they originate from the rootstock, and are both undesirable as well as reducing the plant’s growth. After all they get ‘first crack’ at nutrients taken up by the roots. F. Groom and feed spring bulbs- remove spent flowers where the stems rise from the base. Leave foliage to manufacture food for next year’s growth and feed with a bulb fertilizer such as bone meal. When the leaves start to yellow, cut back on water, and when yellow dig up the bkulbs, allow to dry in a shady spot (continued exposure to direct sun will damage the bulbs), clean and store in a cool place. If your bulbs are in pots, you can usually store the pot and all in a cool area out of the sun. Then bring them out and start watering them when it is time to plant bulbs. G. Stake tall plants: floppy flowers, dahlias, glads and others.
Mulch: To help control weeds, minimize water evaporation, and keep roots cooler, apply a 2 to 4-inch-thick layer of organic material (use the larger amount for taller plants) under shrubs, trees, and vines and on flower and vegetable beds. To prevent crown rot on many of these, keep mulch several inches away from stems and trunks. Again, before you put out the mulch, you may want to apply a pre-emergent seedicide such as Preen to minimize weed seed germination and reduce subsequent weeding.
Thinning: Some time this month is the time to thin apples and most other fruit trees. To keep trees such as apples and pears from producing too much small fruit, remove some of the excess after ‘June drop’ (when trees spontaneously abort unpollinated fruit). Thin triple cluster to doubles and double cluster to singles. However, you may not want to thin at all if your tree is bearing lightly this year. Any that were in bloom when we had wind and rain probably had many of the blossoms knocked off, and the weather may have reduced the population of pollinators. Other kinds of fruit - especially Asian and European pears - need heavy thinning in order to produce large fruit. Again, after your fruit trees have bloomed and the small fruits formed, you may want to thin them to increase fruit size and avoid crowding in clusters. Remember a highly productive tree is usually producing more fruit than you need, and having larger fruit may be more desirable. This year the best time will probably be during June but will depend upon which fruit trees you have.
Shape plants: Shape by pruning young or fast-growing trees, shrubs, and vines, but before you do much, be certain you know how to do this, otherwise consult a Sunset, Ortho or other reliable book covering the subject. This is particularly true of blooming perennials. Also, pinch or prune off poorly placed growth and any stems that are growing at an awkward angle. Cut back vigorous shoots to give the plant the shape and size you desire. Remove suckers arising from the roots.
Training: Now is the time to tie-up and train cane berries planted this past winter, and also almost any plant that needs to be trained on a trellis or other support.
Lawns: Last year I discussed how green the lawns appeared in Millbrae and Burlingame as a result of the extensive rains and lightning produced ammonia fertilizer in the rain. Incidentally, this past winter had less rain and very little if any lightning. Last year the lightning generated ammonia raised the pH of many of our soils from about pH of 7 to 8. This year without lightning, the soil remained around a pH of 7 when I measured in the same areas as last year. John Chiapelone at our last year’s April meeting, said that it was time to aerate our lawns, because of the soil compaction the rains had produced. Then looking at these same green lawns, and after several weeks of warm dry days, I observed that some were still a beautiful green and others have large areas of yellowing turf. In the yellowing lawns, this is most likely areas of soil compaction. While these yellowing areas were receiving rain almost every day, the roots in these compacted areas were not suffering from lack of water. However later, these areas were relatively dry and the grass was short on water. Again, If you haven’t aerated your lawn, do it now. If the surface soil has dried out somewhat, irrigate, as it should be moist for the maximum depth of perforation. If your lawn is of any size, rent an aerator, or better yet hire it done. There are at least 2 reasons for doing this. Aeration of the turf’s root system is essential for healthy growth. Root tips of plants denied oxygen will die, and they are the primary vehicle for uptake of water and nutrients. Secondly, it should improve the depth of water penetration. If the water penetrates deeper, you shouldn’t have to water more often than once or twice a week. However clay soils with a slope present problems. If you have an irrigation timer, cut the irrigation time in half, and program your timer to come on a second time, possibly even a 3rd or 4th time after its first cycle is completed. Such lawns will usually require more frequent irrigation. Also, there is still time to re-seed bare spots.
Protect fruit crops: As fruit approaches maturity with early maturing varieties, you may need to use netting to cover the tree and protect fruit from birds, squirrels, etc. Such netting should be available at most nurseries. It needs to be secured so it doesn’t blow off the trees. However, I have no good suggestions for rodents and other critters that like fruit and can climb trees or jump from something adjacent. However, check with your nursery, there are several things available to curb many of these.
Fertilize: if you haven’t already started fertilizing, remember, April and May were peak use months because most plants produced some of their most active new growth then. Your plants do best when they get off to a good start and maintain such growth. A balanced or a somewhat balanced fertilizer for specific plants is usually recommended, but in some cases, just N as ammonium sulfate may be adequate initially. Following winter rains some plants may be chlorotic (yellowish). This can mean deficiencies of nitrogen, iron, or other minor elements, and some root damage from water molds, or all of these. However, this year the initial yellowing may be due to the lack of nitrogen, but some plants could run out of nitrogen quickly. Apply just N as ammonium sulfate or a balanced fertilizer like 16-16-16 (NPK-nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium). Water-soluble fertilizer mixes, like Miracle Gro-All Purpose 18-24-16, which also includes minor elements, and when applied as foliar sprays, should be able to correct this. Some minor elements, like iron (Fe), may not be effectively extracted by the roots of many plants, particularly those with a reduced effective root systems or lacking mychorriza. For these, foliar sprays, using a product like Miracle Gro-All Purpose should be a preferred method. However, if you don’t do any other fertilizing, be certain your plants get some N from ammonium sulfate. Acid fertilizers are recommended for azaleas, camellias and rhododendrons. Ammonium sulfate is an acid fertilizer, but it only contains N. & S. Extensive use of any fertilizer high in N over a period of time will usually result in a slightly acid soil, favorable for these and most plants. You should fertilize most plants at least every 4 weeks while actively growing, unless you have used a slow release fertilizer. Most container plants, because of the leaching out of fertilizer (primarily N), should be fed twice a month. Again a slow release fertilizer used here should help and save you time. House plants-most should be watered at least twice a month and fertilized while watering at least once a month, or better yet a half strength solution every time you water. The use of time-release fertilizers, such as Osmocote, or Apex where applicable should substantially reduce the frequency of fertilizing. Lawns need to be fertilized monthly, and ammonium sulfate (N) may be all that you need most of the time, particularly if you have been using one of the 2 different types of fertilizer herbicides like Scott’s Turf Builder Plus Halt’s Crabgrass Preventer to prevent germination of quack grass seed or Scott’s Turf Builder Plus 2 Weed Control for the control of broadleaf weeds, like dandelions. I found the best, easiest and least expensive way for me to fertilize with N alone was to use a siphon device which should be available at some nursery supply stores. Most bags of ammonium sulfate indicate the amount needed /1000 sq ft of lawn. I would add this amount to a bucket of water; and stir it until it is all dissolved. Then I would attach the siphon device onto the nearest faucet; and drop the intake tube into the bucket. On the end of the hose I would attach a rose sprinkler nozzle. I would then turn on the water-full, and walk back and forth the length of the lawn, covering a new strip each time. I used enough water to make 2-3 passes over the lawn. I would then turn on the sprinkler system to wash the fertilizer off the blades of grass. Otherwise, the fertilizer would burn the blades of grass.
Foliar Applied Fertilizers-Miracle Gro and similar products: If you have seen the TV commercials for Miracle-Gro All Purpose fertilizer, you will notice that their applications are always made with a garden hose spraying the product using their applicator. This is the most efficient way to apply such water soluble fertilizers. The fertilizer can be easily absorbed by the leaves, particularly the new leaves, and because the fertilizer is diluted with the water from the hose, it doesn’t burn the foliage.
Pest & Disease Control: A. Each winter’s-weather usually produces some changes, and can produce variations in the normal populations of pests. It can produce population changes of both damaging insects and beneficial ones, some fewer, others more plentiful. It seems that each year’s weather is somewhat abnormal, and this season has been definitely no exception. Your stone-fruit trees may have in bIoom during rain and winds. This may have knocked off the blossoms and adversely affected bee population and pollination. On the other hand most of our apples, pears, and citrus were in bloom under favorable weather conditions, and pollination was dependent upon the population of pollinators. Most things appear somewhat late. I have again observed some fire-blight strikes on my pear tree. It usually occurs mainly on the late bloom. The bacterium responsible for the disease is accidentally picked up and transmitted from an infected blossom to a healthy one when the bees or other pollinators are pollinating. Again, in my case this usually occurs on the late bloom.
B. Aphids- As temperatures warm-up some aphid species like those on roses seem to be less important. This may be due in part to the normal buildup of parasites and predators. Probably the most effective are tiny wasps that inject their eggs into the aphids, and when the eggs hatch the young worms feed internally on the aphid, ultimately killing it. Sometimes when you see the cast skins of the aphids, there will be a tiny hole showing where the wasp exited. However, if you did not apply one of the 2 different Bayer products (2-in-I Systemic Rose & Flower Care, or All-in One, Rose & Flower Care) on your roses, and the aphid population is heavy and doing extensive damage you may want to treat them, or you may choose to wash them off or squash them between your fingers. Other species of aphids and other similar insects are active on certain plants, especially trees during the summer and fall. The damage usually appears as distorted new growth. Also, remember the presence of ants moving up and down your plants usually indicates aphids, scale or other sucking insects. The ants are feeding on honeydew that most of these insects produce. Cars parked under certain trees during the summer can have the aphid honey-dew deposited on them, which can even damage the paint if it isn’t a ‘baked enamel’ type. Some recommend the control of ants to slow the population increase. I value their presence on infested plants. Their presence tells me that I probably have a sucking insect problem that I have not observed. After a successful treatment I find the ant population is negligible, and that I have probably done a good job of controlling them. Bayer’s, Tree and Shrub Insect Control is worth evaluating if you have one of these problems. It has many advantages over conventional applications of other insecticides. First, it has probably one of the most active and safest systemic insecticides available for the home gardener. It is applied as a drench to the root system, and systemically moves through the entire plant. I would expect most to move into the most active growth. Because there are more roots in the area of the drip line, I would expect that area to be the most efficient place to drench the root system. Also, I would not expect this treatment to affect most predators and parasites of the pest insects. The presence of honeydew exuded by a sucking insect, usually results in the development of a black sooty-mold fungus. It will only reduce the plant’s photosynthesis somewhat, but it does look bad. C. Scale and other sucking insects: These feed like aphids and when they produce ‘honey dew’ they attract ants and many species are capable of killing the plant when their populations become excessive. Again one of the Bayer systemic insecticide products, should be effective.
D. Codling moth sprays for apples & pears-the old University of California recommendations were as follows: Apply the first spray at 90% petal fall of the blossoms (that should be about now or past.) The 2d spray should be 25 days later. Of the old conventional home garden insecticides, only Sevin has survived and is registered for use on apples, pears, etc. Sevin is the product recommended and should be used, unless there is extensive bloom present and many bees are pollinating. Sevin is very toxic to bees.The 3d spray should be in late June, Again use Sevin (carbaryl). Also remember that the codling moth egg hatch occurs 6-20 days after the eggs are laid.
E. Spittle bugs, a sucking insect- These should be about over. In most cases their numbers are few and you can pick them off with a toothpick or something similar. Also, wherever you have used Bayer’s 2-In-1 or All-in-One Rose and Flower Care you shouldn’t have a problem. F. Slugs and Snails- Apply baits as needed, use stale beer, or hand pick them at night, to keep them from getting out of hand, but possibly a somewhat better control strategy is to bait those highly shaded and protected areas, where they usually reside during the hot and sunny part of the day.
G. Earwigs: Earwig baits give very effective control. Actually their damage to plants in my garden appears to have been negligible, except when I put out seedlings. When they are present, there are usually also snails, and the combination can be devastating. They devour many of the seedlings, particularly those in close proximity to their home during the daylight hours. .Again, bait those areas where they like snails reside during the warmer and sunnier periods.
H. Fuchsia mites: (an eriophyid mite, not a spider mite) if present it should be starting to damage the growing tips of your fuchsias. This is expressed as a thick, distorted, off-color reddish new growth. First try cutting or pinching back about 1/2 inch beyond the conspicuous damage. Currently I know of no effective insecticide except “Sun Oil-Ultra Fine Horticultural Oil. However, Bayer’s 2-in-1, or All-in-One Rose & Flower Care, I would expect might be effective. I. Mites (spider mites): If you have these, they usually start appearing about now and may require control with a spray oil or miticide. However, they don’t reproduce well in wet or cool weather and may be delayed. (Ortho’s Isotox used to contain hexakis which was a very effective miticide. Bayer’s 2-in-1 Rose & Flower Care is effective against mites. J. Thrips: Damage to the leaves of rhododendron appear sickly, speckly and have a slimy greenish white cast and the buds may shrivel up. The above Bayer products listed in H above are recommended and should be effective against thrips.
K. Lawn problems: Lawn moths (also known as sod web worms); are normally only a problem in the warmer Bay areas. They may be laying eggs now. Grubs-feed deeper and the larvae of lawn moths will penetrate deeper into the soil below the sod where the grubs are normally present and present a challenge. Raccoons feed on earthworms, lawn moth larvae and lawn grubs. In severe cases, they will actually roll back the sod to get to these insects. Any soil treatment that controls lawn soil insects should reduce the raccoon problem. Apply Ortho Bug-B-Gone
25. Automatic Irrigation systems: If you haven’t already done so, your automatic irrigation system should be checked out carefully for leaks, breaks, and plugged line strainers. The leaks should be repaired and the plugged line strainers cleaned. Plants growing outdoors in soil normally should be irrigated 1-3 times a week dependent upon sun, shade, temperature, and soil. Also the length of irrigation may start low at the beginning of the season, but should be increased as it warms up.
26. Watering house plants: Plants vary as to their watering needs. A. Many foliage plants have somewhat waxy and/or smooth leaves that usually do not transpire as much water. These need not be watered as often, and with some, too much watering may bring on a water mold root disease problem, that can kill, or at least weaken them if water molds are present in the soil or when some of your used potting mix becomes contaminated by diseased transplants and is reused. If not contaminated, there is no reason the potting soil shouldn’t be used again. Clay pots allow more evaporation of water, and would be expected to have less of a problem with water molds, but at the same time are likely to require weekly or more frequent watering. Also a big plant in a small pot will need more water, than a small plant in a normal pot. Special note, most foliage plants will flower, but the flowers are usually small. As such they can usually be placed in corners and away from windows. Some even dislike the greater temperature variations that occur when placed close to windows. Benjamin ficus is one of the best examples of this. I have had one in the darkest area of the dining room for more that 5 years, and in all that time loss of any foliage has been negligible. Also, I water it about once a month, haven’t fertilized it, and at most it may have only doubled in size, without loosing its beautiful foliage.
B. Flowering plants usually require more water, but there can be considerable variation depending upon the type and quantity of leaves. The more vigorous the plant, the more water they usually consume. The same plants exposed to more light, will usually require more water. When your furnace is on during the winter months, will usually produce a drier atmosphere, with plants usually require more frequent watering. In any case, your own experience will be the best guide as to the frequency of watering. In most cases, you will need to have a saucer, or equivalent under each container. When you water, it is usually best to water from the top with a small plastic watering can, however with some plants this can be difficult. Normally you should use sufficient water to have some water still in the saucer a few hours after watering. By so doing, you will be assured that your pots are fully watered, and top watering will have leached most of the salts from the container (both trace salts from the water and fertilizer salts). Failure to do this can result in an accumulation of salts, which can produce leaf burn. When using saucers, I recommend using a double saucer system, the outer saucer is a safety net to catch any excess water, and works well with many containers. I recommend that you use a moisture meter to assess when water is needed. Formerly, when you purchased your single probe moisture meter, it had an attached a list of many house plants and their preferred soil moisture levels. I have this list if needed. These are available at stores like Orchard Supply and Hardware for about $8. In addition, most flowering plants require sufficient indirect light to promote and maintain bloom. (See 30 below, and use a light meter to identify
the proper placement of flowering plants). Most houseplants need 250 or more footcandles for good and frequent blooming.
27. Watering outdoors-planter boxes, pots, hanging baskets: Watering can be tricky, as the amount needed can vary with each specific plant. Coupled with this is their location, the size of the container, the depth of rooting, and the planting mix used. A. Hanging baskets, during the warmer months, may need to be watered twice a day, and especially twice a day when it is hot. In some cases even more frequently. B. Container/potted plants if in shallow containers in the sun require much the same scheduling. C. Larger containers and plants with deeper roots can be watered less frequently. Again in every case, use enough water to have about 5-10% of it drain out the bottom of the pot or container to moisten the entire container, to leach out salts, and avoid their accumulation.
28. Potting mixes to use: These can vary considerably as to materials used in the mix, and percentages of each used. Some are made specifically for African violets, cactus mix, etc. However some are better than others and your experience and reports of others should be useful. Usually the major differences are the water holding capacities of each mix. However in the past few years there has been an extensive expansion of new formulations and producers of such products. Because there are so many new ones and they differ, it is a good idea to keep records of your experience with each. Previously McLellan’s Supersoil had been the preferred potting mix by many, including myself. It contains some nutrients, but no slow-release fertilizers. Recently Scott’s Miracle-Gro, Schultz’s and others have entered the potting mix market, and most include controlled release fertilizers and can be expected to substantially improve plant growth and flowering. In most cases avoid what is termed a planting mix, which is different than a potting mix. This is usually just soil, with at most some nutrients added, and possibly a little compost. It is usually practical for deeper planter boxes, but not pots, except for the very large, deep containers.
29. Pots: Generally, the smaller plastic pots are preferred over clay pots, because the soil doesn’t dry out as fast, but there are advantages to clay pots. Also, in the smaller pots the greater warmth of the plastic pots initially allows faster root development. There is an ever increasing selection of pots, especially the plastic in sizes and shapes. Decorative ceramic pots for hiding the clay and plastic pots have also expanded greatly.
30. Monitoring moisture levels, pH and light: Unless you are an expert at detecting adequate soil moisture (I’m not), don’t rely on common recommendation of feeling the soil. There is such a variation in potting mixes used for potted plants these days that using feeling moist can be tricky. My favorite for moisture testing is a soil moisture meter with a small single rod probe, such as available at Orchard Supply & Hardware. With a single probe it is easier to penetrate the soil in most potted house-plants and especially compacted soils outside. The probe costs 7.99 at OSH. For 10.99, you can get a meter with 2 probes, which measures moisture, soil pH and light. Measuring the amount of light that each plant receives can be helpful in identifying locations with sufficient diffused light for good blooming of most houseplants. I prefer to have both meters, so with the double probe unit, I can measure the soil’s pH (acidity [1 to 6+] [7neutral], alkalinity [7+ to14]) when it seems advisable, and also measure light intensity in various locations within the house, as well as shady areas in the yard. As you are well aware, plants differ in the amount of light they need and in which they do best. There are the shade loving plants and those requiring full sun for several hours, like roses need at least 6 hours of direct sunlight for adequate growth and bloom.
31. Pollination & Bees: SF Chronicle, Saturday, May 21, 2005 probably had some of the best Garden Articles regarding bees that I have ever read in any such publication. It had 4 articles on the subject, but the most outstanding was Abuzz about bees. I thought I knew quite a bit about the subject, until I read the article. First, the bee men with their hives have a thriving business of putting their hives on farms and orchards to pollinate crops. Primary crops are almonds, melons, seed crops, etc. They use bees which were imported from Europe in the 1600’s and are the common honey bees. Our Native American bees are not honey bees and do not produce honey but are very effective pollinators for many crops. There are at least 4000 species of native bees. Since the early 1900’s European honey bees have been used by farmers for pollinating several crops. There are in California’s at least 550,000 acres of almonds that use approximately 1.1 million hives each year, and the acreage keeps expanding.
Artful accents adorn balconies, patios, rooftops
GRASS ROOTS
SF Chronicle, June 8, 2002
Whether you tend a tiny balcony outside your condo or acres of idyllic green landscape, container gardening can mean a delightful addition to your garden.
Although container gardening is the best option for the millions of Americans who live in apartments with balconies, roofs and sunny windows, those with traditional gardens can also appreciate the advantages of using containers to fill a sterile corner of a patio, highlight a spot in a flowerbed, or to enclose an outside room for summer living.
The art of container gardening is as old as gardening itself. Shrub-filled clay pots were a feature of the gardens of ancient Greece, the Romans grew herbs and vegetables in stone troughs, and the Chinese were growing flowering plants in ornate vases before the Christian era began. The art has not lost its patina among modern gardeners, either. Geranium-filled troughs, flower- bedecked terra-cotta pots, burgeoning concrete urns and wooden tubs are familiar sights on many American doorsteps, patios and balconies, and even in flower beds.
Experienced container gardeners know that there are advantages to this type of gardening.
Pests are easier to control, individual plants can be treated according to their specific needs, trailing plants, often climbers in the garden, can be displayed cascading in hanging baskets, pots designed in creative groupings can make beautiful displays, and the containers themselves can be decorative additions.
Additionally, plants are easier to reach and tall containers can eliminate the need to stoop, making it a convenient way to garden for the elderly or those with physical disabilities.
However, there are some things that require extra care. The amount of soil and compost available to the roots is limited, so be prepared to water and fertilize more frequently with container-bound plants. Every few years as plants grow they often must either be repotted into a larger pot, or transferred into the garden.
Woody shrubs like camellias, azaleas or roses, dwarf trees such as fruit trees and palms as well as a wide assortment of perennials, annuals and bulbs are all good candidates for container plantings. Slow growers are better choices because it won't be necessary to repot frequently.
Choose a container that can hold the plant when it is fully mature, and the plant will be able to spend more of its life in the container, providing it receives good care.
If a pot appears too large for an immature specimen, try making a fuller look by planting a small grouping including some perennials, annuals and climbers that will cascade over the edge to create a miniature garden.
Plants can require different potting soils. Cacti, for instance, need a light, sandy soil mixture, whereas orchids may need bark or pebbles. Most plants will do well with a pre-mixed potting soil. It is advisable to use sterile soil when planting in pots to avoid transporting bacteria that may be harmless in the garden soil but problematic in a confined environment.
Look for pots with good drainage that are heavy enough to provide stability, and large enough to allow for root growth and to hold enough soil so the plant can absorb sufficient water and nutrients.
Plan to repot as the plant grows, but be aware that some orchids and other plants like to be slightly root bound, and others with shallow rooting systems, such as cacti, do well in half pots. A large selection of attractive and unusual containers made of wood, ceramic, plastic, glass, china and terra-cotta are available that will add greatly to the appeal of plants.
Teapots, watering cans, copper kettles, even old boots can be creatively used as temporary novelty containers if they provide adequate drainage.
Line metal containers with plastic to prevent their minerals from contaminating the growing medium. Wooden containers can also be lined in plastic to prevent rotting.
As clay pots age they often develop a coating of green moss on the outside, which can be appealing. To encourage moss growth, spray the exterior of the pot with a solution of buttermilk and water. New clay pots should be soaked in water for at least an hour before use so they do not draw moisture from the soil.
It is important to clean the interior of formerly used pots thoroughly before reusing. Use a stiff brush and warm water mixed with a little household bleach and dish washing liquid and rinse well.
Michele Driscoll Alioto is author of the book “Glorious Indoor Gardens" (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, 2002) and is the host of HGTV's “The Inside Dirt." Her e- mail is ma@michelealioto.com