SIR’S BRANCH #1 GARDENING GROUP

MARCH IN YOUR GARDEN

Table of contents 2/25/08

Check and review sections in which you are interested

Page # Purchase & plant

1 Table of Contents

2 1 BARE-ROOT PLANTS-Final Call: If you aren’t too late: bare-root roses, apples, pears,

peaches, nectarines, apricots, flowering deciduous trees such as flowering cherry and

other deciduous plants like grapes, cane berries, currants, strawberries, iris, lilacs and

Wisteria that you plan to Incorporate into your garden.

2 CONTAINER PLANTS, usually not available in our area as bare-root: Citrus, camellias,

azaleas and rhododendrons

3 3 Camellias, azaleas and rhododendrons, select now while in bloom to observe colors,

flower types, sizes, etc, even those that are fragrant.

4 BEFORE PLANTING- amend soil-sandy (fast draining) or heavy clay soil (poor drainage)

consider double digging.

5 SPRING AND SUMMER ANNUALS-seed or use 6-packs.

6 PERENNIALS

7 PLANTS-started from seed.

4 8 BULBLIKE PLANTS: amaryllis, calla lilies, cannas, crocosmias, dahlias, gladiolus and

Oriental lilies.

9 EVERGREEN VINES

10 GROUNDCOVERS

11 VEGETABLES

12 HOUSEPLANTS: foliage and flowering plants, light, moisture and pH

5 WINTER/SPRING JOBS

13 LAWNS-seeded and sodded

14 PRUNE-last call- If you haven’t pruned your roses, deciduous fruit & nut trees do it

now.

15 Divide perennials

16 Transplanting evergreens-non deciduous plants

17 FERTILIZE: A. lawns,

6 B. roses-controlled release fertilizers, systemic insecticides,

seedicides, alfalfa pellets and mulch,

7 C. Azaleas, camellias and rhododendrons,

D. Citrus

E. Soggy soils

18 Foliar applied fertilizers such as -Miracle-Gro

8 19 SPRAY-deciduous fruit trees. A. peach leaf curl, B. brown rot, C. aphids, D. scale

insects, E. spittle bugs, F. codling moths-apples, pears,

20. PEARS-fire blight

9 21. SNAILS & SLUGS

22. EARWIGS

23. WEEDS

24. FROST

25. PROPOGATION

26. IRRIGATION

27. IMPATIENS

10 & 11 Meeting Critique: Planting tomatoes now in containers; gopher control with strychnine;

hose off your house plants now; rattle snakes; SF Chronicle 3/1/08 abstracts re tomato

varieties to plant.

SIR’S BRANCH #1 GARDEN GROUP

MARCH IN YOUR GARDEN Revised 2//25/08

Use a highlighter on things you want and need to do.

Planning for 2008--Uncompleted Winter Jobs and Those Yet to Do.

I have chosen to leave references to older publications in this revised version, and most articles referred to I have on file. These are usually articles that I filed prior to having the capability of scanning them into my computer. If you would like a specific one; I will photocopy it.

I refer to OSH-Orchard Supply and Hardware frequently, because it is the most convenient garden supply source for me, in the same areas as our 3 markets, 3 banks, and office supply

Also, remember your own successful experiences with plants may differ from those which I share in the following pages from my literature research, my experience and yours. There are many factors that determine the well being of individual plants, and in most cases they can account for differences in experiences.

PURCHASE & PLANT

1. BARE-ROOT PLANTS-Final Call: If you haven’t purchased them and you aren’t too late, do so now (in most places roses are poor, gone, or have been planted into 5-gallon containers. Most nurseries, like Wegman’s, Carlmont, and Regan’s initially store them in sawdust or an equivalent, and can usually be counted on to have healthy, quqlity bare root plants. However, Wegman’s, Carlmont and Regan”s by this month, have planted them in 2 and 5-gallon containers, in which case they should be acceptable to plant any time of the year. However, they are about twice the price they were when bare-root, but at this point they are likely to be somewhat better than the average bare root plants that are likely to have been stressed. In any case you may want to get the varieties available. If they don’t prove successful, you can replace them next year. When looking at bare-root plants, if they have good shoot growth, make certain the roots are healthy. They should be plentiful and well formed, (not 4-6 inch stubs) and should not look dry. Avoid black and slimy or spongy roots. (If only one or two small end sections appear damaged, they can be trimmed off without affecting the plant’s health). Such bare root roses should be planted immediately, and this includes deciduous fruit trees, flowering deciduous trees such as flowering cherry and other deciduous plants like grapes, cane berries, currants, strawberries, iris, lilacs and Wisteria that you plan to incorporate into your garden. Also, there may still be some satisfactory bare-root vegetable plants such as artichoke, asparagus, horseradish, and rhubarb. However, if you see most shoots and roots dry, dead or dying skip them. If only a few bad roots, trim them off before planting. Some nurseries may still be able order certain bare-root plants for you.

2. CONTAINER PLANTS,: all types of young trees in 5 gallon containers should establish themselves faster than those larger trees in larger containers. Initially, the 5 gallon plants will be smaller, but usually catch up and pass the originally larger plants. However, if you want fruit earlier, plant the larger, but they are more expensive. Of all the perennial fruits, citrus requires the minimum amount of care, and is usually not bothered by deer, squirrels and other animals that like fruit. In our area, bare-root citrus is unlikely to be found. I would suggest you try some of the new dwarf citrus on Flying Dragon rootstock, which include Dwarf Lisbon lemon, Dwarf Melogold, a grapefruit pummelo hybrid, Dwarf Mid-Knight Valencia orange, Dwarf Washington navel orange, or Dwarf Star Ruby grapefruit which requires less summer heat to ripen than most grapefruit. Our accumulated annual temperature is cooler than in the usual commercial production areas and can be marginal for several of the standard varieties of citrus, particularly with reduced sweetness in a cool year. In any case, it would be well to check with a reputable local nurseryman, and inquire as to species and varieties that are best in your area. This principle also applies to camellias, azaleas and rhododendrons that are usually available in 2 and 5-gallon containers, but as above there are several reasons for purchasing plants in larger containers.

3. Camellias, azaleas and rhododendrons: There are many species and varieties, and many are in bloom now. When they are in bloom it is usually the best time to select which varieties you would like in your garden, because there are so many different colors, flower types, sizes, etc, even those that are fragrant. As such you can see what they really look like. Also, when in bloom they are in a more dormant state. Camellias are a favorite of mine, and the selection is almost endless, but most nurseries have a limited supply of different varieties, unless they specialize in camellias. The SF Chronicle, Feb. 16, 2005 had a very good article on the subject. Of the different species, Camellia japonica is the most popular and has the greatest selection, followed by C. reticulata and C. sasanqua. Then there are hybrids which are crosses between the different species and represent the next largest group. Other species are C. crysantha, C. granthamiana, C. hiemalis, C. rusticana, C. saluenensis, C. vernalis, and C. sinesis- the camellia species from which tea is produced (the leaves are harvested and processed as either green tea or black tea), however there are 2 varieties used for flowers-and it performs well when grown as a hedge-see my 2007 Western Garden Book, that I have at our meetings for reference.. Also, there are the Higo camellias which were bred in Japan 200 years ago, and are probably C. japonica varieties.

4. Before Planting amend all soils: sandy (fast draining) or heavy clay soil (poor drainage) with several inches of compost, ground bark, and/or other shredded organic matter to improve soil texture, drainage and water retention. If you use ground bark or another wood product, make sure it has been nitrogen-stabilized (read the label or ask the supplier), or mix a little nitrogen fertilizer like ammonium sulfate to the mulch at planting time so the mulch doesn’t retard plant growth by using up the available soil nitrogen in the somewhat complex biochemical processes of degradation. When practical consider double digging the soil (double the depth). See me for instructions on ‘double digging’.

5. Spring and summer annuals-seed or use pony 6-packs when available of Ageratum, Alyssum, bachelor buttons (Centaurea cyanus), Calendulas (Calendula officinalis), cinerarias (Senecio hybridus), purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea), Cosmos spp., gloriosa daisy (Rudbeckia hirta), Clarkia includes Godetia, Iceland poppies (Papaver nudicaule), Impatiens spp., larkspur (Consolida ambigua), Lobelia spp., marigolds (Tagetes spp.), nasturtiums (Tropaeolum spp.,, Nemesia spp., pansies (Viola wittrockiana), Petunia hybrida , primroses Primula spp., Schizanthus pinnatus, snapdragons (Antirrhinum majus), stocks (Mattihola spp)., sunflowers (Helianthus spp.), sweet peas (Lathyrus odoratus), sweet William (Dianthus barbatus), Violas (Viola spp.), and others you may find in your nursery. However, Don Burns always warned that some of the above are really spring/summer flowers and you should resist the temptation to plant them now, the best example being impatiens, for which he suggested that you should wait until April.

6. Perennials-Yarrow (Achillea spp.), Alstroemeria, Artemisia spp., Bergenia spp., bleeding heart (Dicentra spp.), Bougainvillea spp. (after threat of frost is past), Campanula spp, candytuft (Iberis spp.), columbine (Aquilegia spp.), coral bells (Heuchera sanguinea), Coreopsis spp, Daphne spp., Delphinium spp, Dianthus spp., which includes carnations (Dianthus caryophyllus), foxglove (Digitalis spp.), geranium (Pelargonium spp.), Heuchera spp. (coral bells), marguerite- (Chrysanthemum frutescent), ornamental oreganos,(Oreganum vulgare), Penstemon spp., poppy (Papaver spp.), wallflowers-Erysimum cheiri, and violet (Viola spp.).

7. Plants started from seed: It has become apparent that many nurseries do not have flats of 6-packs and pony packs(6)available for many of the various seedlings we may wish to plant in our gardens. For those transplants not generally available, we should give more consideration to starting our own seedlings by reviewing seeds available in seed racks, mail order suppliers* and some that you may have collected and stored yourself. To start your own, fill one of the small long plastic (18-24” long) tabletop greenhouses with moist potting soil in which to sow the seed. Place in a location where you will remember to water with as a mist as needed to keep the soil moist. Also, you may find equal success using empty 6-pack containers. I suggest that you try the chop stick method of planting with any plants that have small seed. To do this, use 2 saucers. Put the seed in one saucer and a small amount of water in the other saucer. Dip the tip of a chopstick in the water, and then touch the damp end into the seed. Then dab the tip of the chopstick into one cell of the tray or 6-pack of potting mix about ¼ of an inch deep. You may want to try different potting mixes. Possibly a better system is the one that Don Brozzo uses. He uses moist vermiculite in a used clear plastic container. With vermiculite, when the seedlings are about an inch tall, they can be more easily removed and potted. With each method, they need to be transplanted 1 or 2 times before planting. *A few seed companies are Burpee Co., 1-800-888-1447; Ferry-Morse Seeds,1-800-283-3400; and Park Seed Co.,1-800-845-3369;

8. Bulblike plants: amaryllis, calla lilies, cannas, crocosmias, dahlias, and gladiolus (I suggest for some, particularly glads, that you plant a new block every 2-4 weeks to have them blooming over a longer period of time). With tigridia, caladium, tuberoses, watsonias and tuberous begonia, it is sometimes best to put then in flats of peat-moss and keep moist until planting in May. Oriental lilies-see Sunset, March, 2000, as to where to order.

9. Evergreen vines: Carolina jessamine, Hardenbergia violacea, Jasminum polyanthum and Clytostoma callistegiodes (See Sunset Feb. 95, p 58 for details.), I haven’t scanned the article into my computer yet. There are brief descriptions in the Sunset Western Garden Book in the Western Plant Encyclopedia section.

10. Groundcovers-now is a good time to establish them, probably the best source for a wide variety of groundcovers in the front section of Sunset Western Garden Book. There are about 4 pages of various groundcover plants. It will show you a small picture of each plant, describe some of the plant’s requirements, and give the page on which it is described in more detail in the main section, designated as the Western Plant Encyclopedia.

11. Vegetables-A. Set out seedlings of broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, B. for a continuous crop of beets, carrots, chard, kohlrabi, lettuce, onions, peas, radishes, spinach and turnips, sow seeds successively two weeks apart. They start easily from seed, and are less expensive than transplants. C. Thin any earlier planted seedlings that are 2-3 inches tall, and read the seed packages for spacing. D. Plant potato and Jerusalem artichoke tubers and onion, garlic and shallot sets. Indoors, start seeds of eggplant, pepper, squash, and tomatoes. However, in most cases it is less time consuming if you buy seedlings, if available, from your local nursery.

12. Houseplants (foliage & bloomers): Most indoor foliage plants require a minimum of light and use a minimum amount of water. Those selected for their flowers usually require a considerable amount of diffused light (close to a window) for bloom to occur, but their temperature, and water needs vary a lot. To monitor the amount of light a plant needs, and to check the soil moisture, you might try one of the meters with 2 soil probes (2 prongs) that measure soil moisture, pH, and light. They are about $11 at OSH (Orchard Supply & Hardware. A similar moisture meter has a single probe and sells for about $8. It usually comes with a long list of house plants and recommends the optimum meter reading range for these. With both units the moisture sensor is at the tip of the probe,and allows you to get readings to about 7 inches deep The single probe is much easier to insert into the soil than the double probe. I would suggest that you use the single probe for moisture, and the double probe use for light and pH (acidity-alkalinity). Check the light for plants that are blooming satisfactorily, and compare it with those that aren’t. You will probably have to keep a record of some of these, and do some experimenting, because their needs vary with moisture, temperature and light.. A few publications spell these out rather well. These probes are useful outdoors as well. To properly water houseplants, it is wise to select a specific day or days of the week. If you miss that day, do it the next day. Also periodically check with the soil with your soil moisture meter probe, to be certain that you are not under-watering or over-watering. You will find a wide range of recommendations on the frequency for watering. However, in many cases this reflects variations in a plant’s needs, the water-holding capacity of the potting mix, the changing environment of the location within the house or outside (summer, winter, wind, furnace on, etc.).

WINTER/SPRING JOBS

13. LAWNS: now is a good time to over-seed an established lawn with weak spots, but don’t use a fertilizer with a pre-emergent herbicide, as it will kill the seed. Replanting your lawn: It is also a good time to prepare for replanting your lawn, after the rainy period. Again don’t use a fertilizer mix with a pre-emergent herbicide if you seed it. However, a pre-emergent seedicide like Preen is good to apply on soil before you lay sod. It is usually best to use sod for lawns that are on slopes where seed might wash away. If you plan to use sod, it is far better to have it sodded by a professional specializing in laying sod, because for a good lawn it requires considerable preparation of the surface soil, before the sod is put down. If you direct seed, you have a larger selection of lawn grasses to choose from. However, there several reasons to use sod. You can have a lawn immediately. Another alternative to both is to have artificial turf installed. It has several advantages, no watering or mowing, and dog tolerant. Considering our long term water supply for California, no watering will be an asset.

14. PRUNE-last call (always have pruning directions on hand and recognize flowering difference between fruit and nut trees. One example is that apples and pears have long term fruit spurs on which boom occurs, whereas peaches and nectarines bloom from buds on last year’s growth): If you haven’t pruned your roses, deciduous fruit & nut trees do it now. Most deciduous fruiting plants should be pruned before the leaf buds begin to swell and leaf out, but a late pruning is usually better than no pruning. Remember with apples and pears, it is a good idea to prune back most of last year’s growth, leaving only a few of last year’s long shoot growth, and pruned back to about 12 inches of growth. It is especially useful to leave some of last year’s new growth in areas of the tree that need to be ‘filled’ in. Also, remember they need to continually establish new fruiting spurs. Also, with apples, all of the new tip growth should be pruned off, because it is where the powdery mildew over-winters. Prune flowering peach, plum, etc. after bloom and while faded blooms are still conspicuous. The faded blooms will easily identify the ‘flowering fruit spurs’. Shape them by pruning lightly and thin out where overgrown or branches rub against each other. Camellias like other blooming perennials are best pruned for shape after blooming. Other ornamentals to prune: fuchsias (prune/pinch and remove twiggy growth), geraniums (pelargoniums), hydrangeas. Flowering-vines such as wisteria, shrubs such as lilac and Japanese snowball and shade trees prune after they bloom.

15. DIVIDE PERENNIALS: Summer and fall-blooming perennials such as chrysanthemums, daylilies and coreopsis can be divided now, while they are still semi-dormant. Lift clumps with a spading fork and make a clean cut with a spade or knife. Use the young outer portions of the clumps; discard the older center growth.

16. TRANSPLANTING: most evergreens (plants that don’t drop their leaves during the winter) are usually best transplanted when they are in bloom (usually their most dormant period). Examples of these are azaleas, rhododendrons and camellias,

17. FERTILIZE: A. Lawns- Consider using a lawn fertilizer which includes a pre-emergent herbicide. This is to stop seed germination from the major annual weeds-crabgrass, annual blue grass, and spurge seedlings which spoil the appearance and good turf maintenance of your lawn. If you don’t have any problems with these weeds, there is no need to use the herbicide. However, remember they are annuals, and seed can continually blow in. You may choose to apply a regular lawn fertilizer or use a balanced 16:16:16 ( N-nitrogen, P-phosphorus, K-potassium) type of fertilizer once a year, at about 1 lb. per 1000 sq. ft., making it an annual application of P & K. The rest of the year just ammoniums sulfate (N) may be adequate. B. Roses: The first 2 weeks of March is a very busy time for the rose grower. Following the recommendations of various experts, I spread under each rose bush the following:

1. A controlled release fertilizer Apex (18-6-12) with a 9 month release period. The product is similar to Osmocote, and several other slow release fertilizers, however note that period of release listed varies with the different formulations and product brands.

2. Alfalfa pellets

3. A granular systemic insecticide Bayer’s 2 in One, Rose & Flower care.

4. A pre-emergent seedicide Preen.

5. Once every 4-5 years I apply magnesium on my clay loam soil (as recommended by Kathy Guthrie). However on sands and sandy loams it is usually recommended at least once a year.

6. I start by raking away remnants of last year’s bark mulch from under the roses. Next with a small hand cultivator, I scratch the upper ½ inch of surface soil to break up any rain created surface crusting. I then spread the controlled release fertilizer around the bush, followed by the alfalfa pellets, then the systemic insecticide, if I didn’t apply it in February. Next, I apply the pre-emergent seedicide around the entire soil surface, and an occasional application of magnesium. Then I scratch them into the soil about ½ inches deep. Now, I am ready to put back the bark mulch. However, I always have to add new ‘fine’ bark mulch and I add enough to make it at least 1-2 inches deep. This reduces the evaporation of moisture from the upper soil, as well as suppresses weed growth. If the mulch is 2 inches deep it does an even better job, and the suppression of weed seed germination will be better and somewhat comparable to that obtained by the Preen.

The following are some of the product names and the amounts to apply.

7. With the controlled release fertilizer Apex, use 3/4 cup/bush, (or use one of the others).

8. Systemic aphicide (insecticide)-Bayer’s ‘2-in-1 Systemic Rose & Flower Care’, use 1 capful/plant, if it was not applied in February.

9. Pre-emergent seedicide-Preen-I would suggest you purchase their 6 pound container with a spout for shaking and spreading the granules around. Costco usually has the material available in a conventional container at a considerably lower price/pound, and from which you can refill the spreader.

10. Alfalfa pellets-2 cups/bush. Alfalfa pellets without molasses is usually available in pet stores.

11. Magnesium is usually available in your nursery with directions for use. It is also available in drug stores, as Epson salt, but without the application rate.

There are different formulations of these slow-release fertilizers and are listed for periods of 4 - 9 months of controlled release. Apex is listed for 9 months of slow release, which means you should only have to fertilize once a year. However, near end of the blooming season, if your roses appear deficient in nutrients, most likely N (nitrogen), and if considerable irrigation has been required, the leaves may start to turn yellow and become senescent. When they have lost their healthy green appearance, they are no longer active in the essential photosynthesis process. These are the leaves on which rust and black spot usually become prevalent. However at that time of year, it is usually better not to fertilize and stimulate new growth. Bayer’s 2 in 1 Systemic Rose and Flower Care product if applied in February or early March should control the aphids, spittle bugs and a few other early season insects. The alfalfa pellets are converted into an alcohol, and will cause the plant to produce new ‘basal breaks’ (growth from the base of the rose, but above the bud union) which is needed to periodically replace some of the older less vigorous canes. Kathy contends that Epsom salt (magnesium sulfate) because of our clay soils need only be applied every 4-5 years or more. The magnesium as a cation is adsorbed to the clay with a very slow release rate, and is readily absorbed by the roots. If you don’t use Osmocote or Apex, you should start with a balanced fertilizer as soon as there is 4-6 inches of new shoot growth, and apply monthly throughout the blooming season. C. Azaleas, camellias, and rhododendrons: fertilize with 0-10-10 while blooming, but wait until after bloom to fertilize with a balanced fertilizer. Most recommendations for 0-10-10, (potassium, phosphorous, but without nitrogen) are based on the premise that the application of N will stimulate new vegetative growth, at the expense of flowering. Also at this time the new growth will be very susceptible to frost damage. In a normal year, we are usually past the killing frosts, but each year seems to be abnormal, and this year thus far has been very abnormal.

D. For citrus it is recommended that a balanced NPK fertilizer, like 16-16-16, be applied immediately following bloom. However, most citrus growers and other fruit growers frequently apply ammonium sulfate (N) at this time. One purpose is to be certain that there is a sufficient N supply for both the new vegetative growth, as well as that needed for blossom retention and fruit development. If we periodically apply a balanced fertilizer, this is probably adequate for us because of our predominantly clay soils.

E. Soggy soils would be expected to have produced a somewhat damaged root system, resulting in yellow leaves, many of which have dropped from otherwise evergreen plants. These same conditions frequently produce an iron or other minor element deficiencies in the leaves of certain plants, again resulting in yellow leaves. These minor element deficiencies should respond to a foliar spray of a fertilizer like Miracle-Gro which contains chelated minor elements. However, some active growth with new leaves is usually needed for maximum effectiveness of the foliar spray. If you haven’t done so before, now may be a good time to apply an all-purpose fertilizer (such as 16-16-16) to the entire garden, not already being fertilized. Fall planted annuals and perennials as well as established trees and shrubs get a boost from fertilizing now. As a general rule- start fertilizing all plants when active growth is evident. Note any precautions for specific plants. Keep in mind that although Osmocote, or its equivalent, is one of the more expensive fertilizers. However, in most situations it may only need to be applied once a year, and can supply sufficient nutrients during active growth for the entire year. This may make it advisable for use in many situations. Also, there are fertilizer spikes that can be inserted around plants, which may be more convenient with some potted plants, trees, etc, but they are more expensive than the Osmocote type of fertilizer.

18. A water soluble fertilizer like Miracle-Gro, applied as a foliar spray accomplishes several things at this time, 1. It allows foliar uptake when the root system may have been reduced because of periods of saturated soil during the past month or so, 2. Any run-off will still be available to a limited extent for uptake by the roots even though not very efficient, and 3. Foliar absorption is particularly important for deficiencies of iron and certain other minor elements such as zinc, which may be poorly taken up by the roots. Miracle-Gro’s Miracid also contains micronutrients, but I doubt that you need to have both materials on hand. In any case don’t apply foliar sprays when rain is expected, it can wash off the leaves before there has been sufficient absorption by the leaves.

19. SPRAY: deciduous fruit trees with dormant oil, and if disease is a potential, add lime sulfur or copper to dormant sprays after pruning, however don’t use dormant oil if buds have swollen. Always check the label directions carefully for usage precautions. A. Peach leaf curl-peaches and nectarines, if you haven’t done it, do so now with lime sulfur, studies by UC Berkeley indicated it is superior to most others. A second choice would be a copper spray such as Micro-cop with a ‘sticker’. Spray when the flower buds first display pink color (pink bud stage). This is the most important spray of the season for this disease. B. Brown rot: with wet weather brown rot fungus could be a serious problem with certain fruits like apricots. The same copper spray used for peach leaf curl should be effective. C. Especially watch for aphids on camellias, citrus and roses. However certain aphid species on certain deciduous fruit trees, such as apples and pears can produce deformed leaves, similar to that which occurs on citrus. D. Scale insects watch for them on a variety of plants, the presence of ants is usually a good indicator of their presence; the presence of ants also applies to aphids and most other sucking insects. E. Spittle bugs with their white foam should start showing up, blast them off with water, and the addition of a little kitchen detergent should help. F. Codling moths-apples, pears: April is normally the beginning of the cover sprays (after bloom) for codling moth, but if you want relatively worm free apples, it’s not too early to start your April planning. Codling moths-traps & control:(traps contain a female pheromone that attracts the males and minimizes their mating with the females which produce the eggs): Hang them in your apple trees to determine the best time to spray. Some suggest that you use two traps per tree for moth control & install before bud break. It can reduce the moth population by luring the males into the trap. However the cost is relatively high and with high populations of moths, they are usually rather ineffective. The University of California has demonstrated this. A single trap would be better used to determine moth flights into your trees, thus indicating when to spray. My entomology text (1951) reports that most eggs are laid 2-6 weeks after apple bloom and hatch in 6-20 days. The worms feed slightly on the leaves but in a few hours crawl to the young apples and chew their way into or enter the fruit, frequently entering by way of the calyx cup at the blossom end. A former University of California recommendation was to spray when 90% of the petals have fallen, or when traps indicate post-bloom moth activity. Note egg hatch occurs 6-20 days after eggs laid. The 2nd spray is recommended 25 days after the first spray, and the 3d spray in late June. Codling moths on apples and pears over-winter as full grown larvae in cocoons under loose scales of bark on the tree and in the soil or in debris around the base of the tree. A thorough dormant oil spray of the entire tree and soil under it should substantially reduce their numbers. However, keep in mind that the adults of worms are moths (nocturnal-fly at night), and which would be expected to fly in from neighbors close by, especially where your neighbors don’t maintain an effective spray program. If you haven’t already applied a dormant oil spray, do so following your dormant pruning. Dormant spraying should be effective against most insect eggs, scale and mites, over-wintering in various places on the tree. The addition of an insecticide like Sevin or malathion to a dormant oil may make it somewhat more effective. A point on moths and butterflies, which are closely related, is their flight habits. Moths are predominantly nocturnal, meaning they are active at night, when you are not likely to see them. You are aware of moths being attracted to lights at night. Butterflies are active during the daytime. My suggestions for spraying follow: 1^st spray prior to bloom-a dormant oil spray including either Sevin, or malathion, 2^nd spray-at “petal fall” use malathion, 3^rd spray-25 days later, use a mixture* of both malathion and Sevin**. 4^th spray-late June, same as the 3^rd spray. Follow suggested label rates. The 1^st or 2^nd of these sprays, should do a good job on the rosy apple aphid. **Sevin is quite residual, but is deadly to bees, and should be avoided during bloom when you observe considerable bee activity.

20. PEARS-“fire blight”: like codling moth, fire blight is even a more serious disease of pears, it is most likely to show up from April to June, and requires vigilance and preparedness. A bacterium is the causal organism for this disease is physically transmitted by bees and other pollinators of pears and apples, which unintentionally spread it. Commercial pear growers either spray or dust antibiotics or coppers and these must be applied one or more times during the period of bloom. The disease is systemic and in some strains can eventually kill the tree. Also, some strains can be as bad on apples. This will be covered in more detail in April in Your Garden.

21. SNAILS & SLUGS: As night temperatures rise, they are more active and can quickly devour flowers such as crocus, daffodils, Iceland poppies, pansies and primroses, etc. Apply bait, or hand pick at night.

22. EARWIGS: Trapping may be an effective method. Small rolls of newspaper or corrugated cardboard with large corrugations are reported as being very effective. Collect the rolls and put them in your garbage can just prior to your weekly garbage pick-up. However my experience suggests that it may be better to use baits which give good control.

23. WEEDS: With our potential for wet weather ahead, weeds could become a serious problem. Dig out large weeds where possible and lightly cultivate weedy areas around plants. However, one of the pre-emergent weed seed killers like Preen spread in weed prone areas can save you much of your garden work time. Whenever you put out seedlings, apply around the seedlings, but remember, never apply it where you are going to place seed. The pre-emergent herbicides are seedicides, and don’t distinguish between plant species.

24. FROST: Watch for dry, still nights when it’s clear; monitor weather forecasts. If frost is predicted, move tender container plants such as citrus, cymbidiums, hibiscus and mandevilla beneath overhangs or into the garage. Protect other frost-tender plants in the ground with burlap, cloth or plastic coverings; but avoid the plastic touching the leaves if at all practical. It is usually recommended that the covers be removed during the day. Spray plants with ‘Cloud Cover’, a polymer coating that reduces the plant’s respiration and makes them more tolerant of frost. Mulch: If it is likely to be a hard freeze, insulate the roots by spreading bark or straw on the ground. If frost is likely during the early morning, water the plants in advance. Good soil moisture gives insulation to the root system, and itself retains some heat, and good turgidity within the plant will reduce frost damage. Frost damaged plants: Patience is the key to reviving frostbitten plants. It is best to withhold pruning out the damage until spring. With future frost damage possible, to prune now, also reduces the plant’s ability to survive. Though it may be tempting to trim off dead leaves and stems, it will only encourage new, young growth that won’t survive another winter frost. Wait: Until spring to see if your plants make a comeback, and then trim out the damaged areas. Water: If the ground is not frozen, continue watering the plant. Good soil moisture not only protects the roots, but can radiate some of its heat, which is warmer than the outside air. Again remember, keep your frost susceptible plants well watered because turgid leaves are damaged less, and moist soils can insulate the roots.

25. PROPAGATION: the next two months is usually a time to make cuttings from new tip growth of many of your garden plants, such as chrysanthemums, fuchsias, geraniums and marguerites. Those plants that are very succulent generally don’t require a rooting powder. However, plants like azaleas, camellias, rhododendrons & other woodier plant growth usually do best with a rooting powder. I found that if I scraped a small strip of the bark off of both sides of lower tip of each cutting. I had about 98% success rooting my azalea cuttings using this method and my misting chamber. The woodier cuttings do best using a misting chamber or equivalent and is frequently required for effective propagation. Anyone caring to start a lot of cuttings requiring a misting chamber please contact me and we will see if we will be able to schedule such. However, the small plastic containers used indoors to plant various seeds, can usually be used to root your cuttings.

26. IRRIGATION: Now is a good time to check your irrigation system. Check and clean line strainers, check emitters and other outlets to be certain they are functioning properly, and be certain to repair any leaks.

27. AMERICA’S NUMBER-ONE BEDDING PLANT: Impatiens wallerana does everything well and asks little. It’s marvelously adaptable in shaded or semi-shaded landscapes; blooms prolifically from spring to late fall in beds, borders, pots or hanging baskets. Also, it has very few disease or pest problems. However, Don Burns always recommended waiting until April before planting, even though they are now available in many nurseries.

SGG Monthly Critiques

2/28/08 Meeting

At our February meeting there were several interesting informative discussions. I would like to incorporate your notes as part of our Critique additions to the post meeting mailing of March in Your Garden, which I had hope to send out the week of March 2.

One of the main points that John Chiapelone shared and which caught my attention was planting a pot of tomatoes now. He has previously indicated that most tomato growers in our mid-peninsula area find Early Bird their choice as the #1 tomato. At the meeting, John said our late winter-early spring weather has been favorable for planting tomatoes now. John recommends the use of containers for planting your tomatoes. I fully agree with that. You will frequently see VFN on tomato transplant labels. That means they were bred for resistance to V-Verticilium, F-Fusarium, both root fungi diseases, and N-root-knot nematode, also a root disease, all 3 of which can be serious problems on tomatoes. If you plant your tomatoes in the soil, sooner or later one or more of those will build up in the soil and create serious problems. If you plant your tomatoes in containers filled with potting soil, you should never have a problem. I saw in March 1 (Saturday’s Home and Garden of the SF Chronicle), 2 articles on tomatoes. On the next page you will find a few portions that I abstracted.

John Chiapelone also pointed out that a strychnine product put out by Monterey Chemical was the most effective product for controlling gophers, and probably several other rodents. John said he would look further into the product names and sources. Strychnine is an alkaloid extracted from certain plants and is the active ingredient.

I visited Orchard Supply, and found the product. In fact I had previously purchased it several months ago, and didn’t recall that it contained strychnine. It was Grant’s Gopher Killer Pellets. They also had Cooke’s, Quick Action Gopher Mix with strychnine on grain. I would expect such products to also be available at your local nurseries, Home Depot, or Lowe’s.

John attended a meeting on the Oak Sudden Death, and shared with us some of the details for its control. He said that he would get more information for us. He also said that the Mills Canyon, just a block north of our meeting place and was a major source from which the fungus was spreading. If I remember correctly, it is a strain of Phytophthora infestans, which is the fungus that causes late blight of potatoes, which was responsible for the potato famine in Ireland, and which resulted in a major exodus of the Irish to New York in the 19^th Century. Most of the Phytophthora spp, are known as water molds and infect the roots of plants doing serious damage, usually killing the plants under ideal conditions for the organism. Currently, the only effective treatment is to spray the trees with a protectant to stop infection from occurring, and which usually required only once a year, if applied at the right time. This is usually done by hiring a commercial licensed applicator, costing somewhere around $300/tree. I am looking further into this subject

John also said that now was a good time to take your house plants outdoors and hose them off to remove the dust, etc that had accumulated on the foliage.

Arne Pedersen shared the problem he was having with rattlesnakes in his yard. He pointed out that during construction of the nearby College of San Mateo. The grading of land had disturbed the snake’s homes and it had been a severe problem then. He said the area is still infested with rattle snakes. John said they should contact the San Mateo County Agricultural Commissioner’s office 650-363-4700 relative to possible means of minimizing the problem, as eradication is not the answer.

The Kuhlman’s live in the same general area, and Nona was not aware of this. She is concerned, because her grandchildren visit her periodically.

TOMATOES

Pam Pierce-Golden Gate Gardener

SF Chronicle 3/1/08

Abstract of part of the 1st article

There are some permanent obstacles to good tomato growing. What the plants want is sun all day (or for a minimum of six hours), daytime temperatures between 75 and 95 degrees, and nighttime temperatures above 55 degrees. But near the coast, they must endure summer daytime temperatures that barely skim 70, long periods of fog, and nights that may drop below 55 degrees.

The cool temperatures and, on foggy days, low light, slow plant growth, so that the first ripe fruits may occur much later than the “days to maturity” (DTM) listed in the catalog, and they may be thicker-skinned and less flavorful.

The cold nights pose a special problem because tomato pollen can’t fertilize the flowers if nights are colder than 55 degrees, so we often see less fruit than there were flowers.

Location can make as much difference as neighborhood.

Abstract of part of the second article by Pam Pierce in the Chronicle

“Early Girl”, true to its name, ripened earlier. It also produced much more heavily, and earned the rating “very good” for flavor, “Stupice” rated “very good” for flavor but was even earlier and more productive.

Abstract of parts of a third tomato article by Lynette Evans, Editor for the Home & Garden section of the SF Chronicle

Master gardeners in several Bay Areas counties test tomato varieties, those most relevant are Marin and San Mateo. Last summer, San Mateo County master gardeners did some preliminary test in two sites: a windy site in Half Moon Bay about a block from the ocean, and at their Elkus Youth Ranch, a more protected site a couple of miles inland.

As with San Mateo, they recommended the orange cherry “Sungold” which placed first in their tomato testing competition. And reflecting my own results, they suggest ‘Early Girl’ and ‘Stupice’

Harold Lembright at Lembright@Juno.com