October in Your Garden

Revised 9/24/07

Table of Contents

Page #

1. Table of Contents-October in Your Garden 9/24/07

2 Local nurserymen need your business

Selecting specific plant varieties, types and various descriptions

3 1 PURCHASE YOUR BULBS, CORMS, ETC.

A. Choose biggest, plumpest

B. Tulips-early, mid, and late season bloomers

C. Store in a cool, dry location

D. Tulips, hyacinths, and crocus, need ‘chilling’

E. You can plant as early as November, daffodils-October

F. Immediate color and fill-ins

G. Normal planting and planting in pots. Naturalizing daffodils and Tulips

H. Potted bulbs (daffodils, hyacinths and tulips-mass effect)

I. Variations on H above)

4 J. Tulips.

2. PLANT ANNUALS

3. PLANT FOR PERMANENCE

4. PLANT PERENNIALS

5. PLAN FOR AND RESEARCH OTHER PERENNIALS TO PLANT LATER

6. PLANT SHRUBS and methods for planting them

5 7. PLANT VEGETABLES

8. SET OUT GROUNDCOVERS

9. CUTTINGS

10. SOIL PREPARATION

11. PLANT OR SOD LAWNS

6 12. LAWNS. PERFORATING, DETHATCHING & OVER-SEEDING

13. ORDER GRAPES, FRUIT TREES, & BERRIES

14. ROSES, which varieties do I want to plant, and do I need to special order them

(For those that plan to purchase some new varieties, see 27 below. Do you need

a few bushes th at do reasonably well in a somewhat shady area?

7 15. MAINTENANCE

16. DEADHEADING .

17. CARE FOR PERENNIALS

18. DIVIDE PERENNIALS

19. CLEAN UP THOROUGHLY

8 20. WAIT TO PRUNE

21. MARK BULBS, SEEDED AREAS, and PLANTS

22. WATER & FROSTS

23. FERTILIZATION

24. SYSTEMIC PESTICIDES

9 25. WEED CONTROL: Seedicides

26. DEER DETERRENTS: A. Fences, B. Electric fences for deer, C. Fishing line deer

fence, D. A motion detector activated sprinkler

10 27. THE BARE-ROOT SEASON FOR ROSES IS NOT FAR OFF.

28. THE MOST POPULAR ROSE FORM IS THE HYBRID TEA. There are Floribundas,

Grandifloras Climbers, and Tree roses.

29. ROSE ARTICLES AND RECOMMENDATIONS .

30. CHRISTMAS GIFTS: A. Magazines & books. B. Garden supplies-tools, gloves, etc.

10 &11 Notes from our meeting

SIRS BRANCH #1 GARDENING GROUP

OCTOBER IN YOUR GARDEN

Revised 9/24/07

Use a highlighter to indicate plants to buy and things you plan to do. September-October is the second most active gardening period of the year. Remember your own successful experiences with plants may be better than those which I share in the following pages.

At this point, I want to reemphasize that you patronize your local nursery for as many things as practical, especially your plants. However, we do need the chain nurseries for a wide variety of gardening products. Remember we need good local nurseryman with experience to answer our local needs and problems, and they need our patronage to stay in business. My experience was as follows: First, I lost Peters & Wilson, where I learned so much about home gardening. I tried the chain stores, with their good prices, but I soon learned good prices didn’t make up for home gardening know-how. After those experiences, I found that I could get the plants that I wanted and when I wanted them from Burlingame Garden Center. But here again, they are no longer in business. Also, I frequently refer to Orchard Supply & Hardware (OSH) primarily because it is convenient for me, it is in the area where I bank and we do most of our shopping. It does have an extremely wide variety of products used in home gardening, and I do buy their irrigation equipment, as well as pesticides, pruners, etc. It is also where I can review product labels and prices (OSH is usually slightly more expensive than Home Depot, Lowe’s, Costco, etc, but they are much farther away. Considering my gas and my time, I can justify OSH’s prices).

Selecting Specific Plant Varieties, Types and Various Descriptions

Remember at out age, we don’t have time to try all the different plant varieties that are available, and still have time to enjoy the ones we would like. Choosing specific plants to plant in your garden can be confusing. It is very important to remember that many plant genera are so large that they are first divided into species and further subdivided into ‘varieties’ and further divided into sub-varieties as well as ‘flower color, types’, growth characteristics, etc., One example is camellias with several species, and within the most common specie Camellia japonica there are varieties, varying in color, flower type, etc. These are highlighted on 5 pages in the 2001 revision of Sunset’s Western Garden Book. An even more complex example is roses. There are many different species native to different parts of the world, but the most popular varieties planted by most of us are modern day hybrids of the 20th century, and many new ones already introduced in the 21st century. These are highlighted on 9 pages (579-587) in the 2001 revision of Sunset’s Western Garden Book. However, even here there are numerous new varieties introduced since 2001.Within this section is detailed information on climate, buying plants, location, planting, routine care, watering, nutrients, pest & disease control. pruning, winter protection, and types of roses. The important thing for you is that it is best if you know exactly which ones you would like to plant. Even if you think you know what you want, you should do some research on the latest varieties. Also, there are new plant species being introduced each year. Periodically I will list recommendations for various other plants and from various sources. Sunset’s Sunset Western Garden Book is an excellent source for these, and especially roses and camellias. Periodically I purchase the latest revision. As an example of the expansion of new camellia and rose varieties, I compared revisions (not printings) 1995 and 2001 of Sunset’s Western Garden Book. During the 6 years between revisions and extensive hybridizing, the number of favorite varieties of Camellia japonica increased from 17 to 37, and with roses it was far greater. As such, I recommend that those who plan to plant and/or replace some of your roses start your ‘homework’ now. When I send out the post-meeting E-mail of October in Your Garden, I will include an excellent article by Rayford Redell, and a compilation of many recommendations from various sources.

What needs to be done?

  1. IF YOU HAVEN’T PURCHASED YOUR BULBS, CORMS, ETC. DO IT NOW, as the first customers usually select and/or sort out the best! They have a few types in bulk. Most bulb types are available pre-packaged. Anemones, Clivia, Crocus, Colchicum (autumn crocus), daffodils (Narcissus sp.), Dutch Iris, Freesia sp., Homeria, hyacinths Hyacinthus orientalis , Ixia, Leucojum, Lycoris (spider lily), Muscari spp.,(grape hyacinths),Oxalis spp., Ranunculus asiaticus , Scilla spp., Sparaxis tricolor, Tritonia spp ,Crocosmia x crocosmiiflor (Montbretia), tulips (Tulipa spp.) and Watsonia spp.. If you haven’t done it before, consider planting in pots, for display indoors and outdoors during the holidays (see H below).

  1. Choose the biggest, plumpest bulbs, corms, or rhizomes!

  2. With tulips, remember there are early, mid and late season bloomers.

  3. Store them in a cool dry location until planted,

  4. Tulips, hyacinths, and crocus, and their need of ‘chilling’. They should be stored in the refrigerator (not the freezer compartment) for 6-8 weeks prior to planting. Do not remove them from the refrigerator until you are ready to plant them, because the value of the chilling effect may be lost in a few days.

  5. You can plant your bulbs as early as November (daffodils as early as October) for color depending upon when you want them to bloom. The bulbs planted early, bloom earlier, and will usually retain their blooms longer during the cool winter period. You can stagger your planting period from November-January, extending the blooming period.

  1. For immediate color and fill-in, interplant with low growing winter annuals. Choose colors that complement the bulbs, such as blue violas with yellow daffodils, salmon Primula obconica with purple tulips or purple and white fairy primrose with pink tulips.

  1. When we first started planting daffodils in Helga’s front yard, we usually planted more than 100 daffodils each year, but the time it required to plant daffodils and tulips, maintain them, dig and clean was excessive, considering the very short time they were in bloom. Also, the last time we planted them, we lost about 50% of the daffodils to a bulb rot and bulb maggots The bulk bulbs we planted were most likely infested. We decided that potted bulbs as in H. below were a better alternative for us. As they came into bloom, they could be moved into locations inside and out, where their full beauty could be more fully enjoyed. Also, after blooming they could be moved into a sunny area where they could be watered, fertilized and continue to grow and reestablish their food reserves more fully for next year’s planting. As the foliage turns from green to yellow to brown, they can be removed and stored in a cool dry location. However, your outdoor plantings may be satisfactory, especially if you have an area where you can let them ‘naturalize’. Naturalizing daffodils and Tulips: Both Bea Lewis and Ann Berkyto have commented on their success over the years of never digging their daffodils and tulips in the spring, and also in areas that receive water all year long. Gordon Lavering has his planted in a movable planter box, and after they die back, he moves them into a dry area. He brings them out again around November and starts watering them again.

  1. Potted bulbs (daffodils, hyacinths and tulip-mass effect): You can plant about 5-6 in a 6-inch pot, 10-12 in an 8 inch, 20-25 in a 12, and 40-50 in a 16. Plant so the top of each bulb is about 4-6 inches below the rim. Leave the soil about 2 inches below the rim for watering. Remember hyacinths, tulips and crocus usually do best after storing them in the refrigerator for 6-8 weeks. With healthy bulbs, you can do this all year long.

  2. Variations on H above) Using a shallow bowl, dish, or containers made for single bulbs, add about 1-1½ inch depth of white rock, and place larger bulb types close together on the rock surface. Add sufficient water to cover the bulb bases about ¼ - ½ inches. Once the bulbs root, be certain to keep the roots covered with water. After blooming, place rooted bulbs into pots or in the ground in a sunny area, and fertilize them. As such they should be OK to use next year. The white rock is usually available in nurseries. 2) Also watch for Xmas kits with bulbs. Some of the more spectacular usually come with a clear glass cylinder, with potting media, 1 bulb, of an amaryllis, grape hyacinth, or other bulbs. You may need to plant them in late October or early November for them to be in bloom at Christmas.

  3. Tulips: My experience of digging, cleaning and storing tulip bulbs from one year to the next was disappointing. However, following instructions in G above might allow you to replant them each year, but to be sure, purchase new tulip bulbs each year.

2 PLANT ANNUALS. For winter through spring bloom, plant cool-season annuals now.

The warmer the soil following their planting, the larger the plants will be before vegetative

growth tapers off as the weather cools. Choose from 6-packs of Calceolaria spp., Calendula

officinalis (pot marigold), cineraria (Senecio hybridus, S. stellata), Iceland poppies (Papaver

nudicaule), Nemesia spp., pansies (Viola wittrockiana), primrose (Primula spp.), Schizanthus

pinnatus, snapdragons (Antirrhinum majus), stock (Matthiola) and violas (Viola spp.). From

seed plant baby blue eyes (Nemophila menziesii), forget-me-nots (Myosotis sylvatica), sweet

alyssum (Lobularia maritima), sweet peas (Lathyrus odoratus), and sees spring wildflowers

after the start of the rainy season. Six packs: Remember, the very small pony packs (small

6 packs), with small but good-looking plants and only a few blooms are usually the best to

plant. However, some of the chain nurseries like OSH may no longer carry many of them, but

check with your local nurseries. When all the plants in the pack are in full bloom, they will

usually be somewhat root bound. Unless the outer roots are adequately opened up, you will

usually find the root ball still intact when you pull them up if they have died prematurely. Try

Vera Feige’s technique, pushing your little finger up the center of the root ball and loosening

the root ball.. On some larger 6 packs of chrysanthemum, we had to use a screwdriver to do

the same thing. Then we tapped the root ball to shake out dirt, followed by pulling loose

some of the outer entwined roots. Again, most of the chain nurseries seldom carry many

pony packs any more. In any case, don’t water the 6 packs immediately before planting.

The root system is easier to open up if the soil is a little drier. However, before planting,

don’t let them dry out to where they are wilting.

3. PLANT FOR PERMANENCE. This is one of the best months for setting out any kind of

plant that’s not frost-tender. Ground covers, shrubs, trees, and flowers all benefit from fall

planting: they get off to a fast start in the still-warm soil and they have the cool months

ahead to develop a healthy root system. Before buying plants, learn their ultimate height

and spread, be sure they should do well and fit the space you plan for them. Allow plenty of

room to grow, so you don’t have to prune them to keep them in bounds.

4. PLANT PERENNIALS. Plant early bloomers such as Aquilegia spp. (columbine),

Campanula spp. (bellflower), Delphinium spp., Digitalis spp. (foxglove), Heliotropium

arborescens (heliotrope), Heuchera sanguinea (coral bells), Iberis spp. (candytuft),

Rudbeckia hirta (Gloriosa daisy/black-eyed Susan), Salvia leucantha (Mexican sage). Also,

later bloomers such as Achillea spp. (yarrow) and Gaura lindheimeri.

  1. PLAN FOR AND RESEARCH OTHER PERENNIALS TO PLANT LATER: Camellias are one example. As indicated above, there are at least 37 preferred species of Camellia japonica that you might consider. Remember for most of us, if you want to enjoy them, plant them now, and get rid of those which you are not satisfied with.

  2. PLANT SHRUBS. One recommendation is to score each root-ball to loosen roots. Dig a

planting hole no deeper than the root-ball and about twice as wide. Half-fill the hole with

soil, tamp with the shovel handle and soak well. Fill the hole with soil and tamp with your

foot; soak soil thoroughly. (One system that I prefer and have found very successful, is

to dig the hole, placing the soil on the surface, around the edge of the hole. Remove

the plant from the 1, 2 or 5 gallon container and place the plant in the hole. Then with

a hose, nozzle and a strong stream of water, wash the soil out of the root ball. Stop

periodically and with one hand, pull the dirt around the hole into the water, and with

other hand position the plant. This makes the soil around the roots, the same as the

surrounding soil, avoiding the problems associated water penetration into stratified

soil. Do this 2 or 3 times until most of the dirt in the root ball has been washed out.

Finally, adjust the depth of the plant crown or bud union about 2 inches above the

final soil surface. This method should allow better water penetration into the roots in

subsequent irrigation and rain.) For fall color in full sun with minimal water, consider

Anisodontea hypomandarum (Cape mallow), Alyogyne huegelii (blue hibiscus), Buddleia

spp.(butterfly bush), Plumbago auriculata(Cape plumbago), Ceanothus (wild lilac), Cassia

artemisioides (feathery cassia), Grevillea, Lavatera (tree mallow), Leptospermum (tea tree),

Rhaphiolepis s pp., Cistus spp. (rockrose), Salvia greggii (Autumn sage) and Arbutus

unedo (strawberry tree).

  1. PLANT VEGETABLES. No later than early October, you should set out crops like broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower that need a long time to mature. Also, there’s still time to plant onions, radishes, spinach and turnips. Sugar snap peas and snow peas can be started from seed now. Also try seeding beets, radishes, Bibb lettuce and carrots every two weeks from now until mid-November. Set out garlic in rich, well-drained soil. Break cloves apart into individual clovelets. Cover regular garlic with about 2 inches of soil, elephant garlic with 4-6 inches. Firm the soil and water.

  2. SET OUT GROUNDCOVERS: Ajuga spp., Aptenia cordifolia (red apple-*D), Arctostaphylos spp, (manzanita), Asteriscus maritimus-*D), Ceanothus prostratus-*D, Cerastium tomentosum (snow in summer), Cotoneaster dammeri-*D, (Hedera spp.) ivy-some species *D, Hypericum reptans,), juniper-*D (Juniperus spp.),), Myoporum spp., Pachysandra terminalis (Japanese spurge), Polygonum c. compactum, Rosmarinus officinalis (Rosemary-*D), Teucrium cossonii-*D. (Those with *D identification have varying degrees of drought tolerance, SEE Sunset’s Western Garden Book for more specific information) There are other species of the above that can serve as ground covers but most grow more than a foot high. Two of the best ground covers that I have are ‘red apple’ (Aptenia cordifolia) and Persicaria capitata (Polygonum capitatum or Polygonum c. compactum). However, the polygonum produces excessive amounts of seed, which requires weeding them out of places where you don’t want them to take over.

  3. CUTTINGS: There is still time to consider making cuttings of geraniums and other frost sensitive plants, root them, pot them, and place them in a frost free area to replace any plants that might be lost due to freezing. Remember our weather almost every year is unusually unpredictable, and this year is setting records. Next meeting here, if rooted, you may want to share some with others, or you may wish specific cuttings from others. A 50:50 mix of sand and peat moss is a preferred mix for the woodier harder to root cuttings. Tip cuttings about 3-4 inches long, of new growth is usually best. Soft tissue cuttings, such as geraniums, usually don’t require or prefer a rooting powder like Rootone.

  4. SOIL PREPARATION: Before planting anything, properly prepare the soil. Apply 2-3 inches of compost over the surface, or other similar organic soil amendments. Spread a 16-16-16 or comparable fertilizer, and spade in as deep as practical to incorporate non-mobile P & K. However, if you have been applying the NPK fertilizer to this area for several years, usually N as ammonium sulfate may be preferred for a while. Too much P in some cases will depress the uptake of P and minor elements from the soil. This is because of the existence in the soil of a beneficial mychorriza complex, which doesn’t do well when the soil P is too high). Spading will also improve soil aeration and water penetration, so essential for root development. This is also a good time to order some good topsoil to replace or blend with any of your less desirable soil. I have found Lyngso’s nurserymen mix excellent. In the past I usually got 3-5 cubic yards per year delivered, but you can order less. Even with the nurserymen mix, the incorporation of organic matter into the surface soil will produce nitrohumus, which will improve soil structure and aeration, and minimize the compaction and ‘cementing effect’ the winter rains can produce.

  5. PLANT LAWNS. October is one of the best times to seed a new lawn. Before planting, spade or rotary-till the soil and add plenty of organic matter and a lawn fertilizer or just a high NPK mix. The tall fescues are some of the best grasses to consider because of their drought tolerance, and which we are likely to experience in the next few years. Several years ago, Don Burns recommended the dwarf tall fescues. Then, I found both the dwarf and double dwarf tall fescues at the Central Garden Center at 408, 9th Ave., San Mateo. The dwarfs may be hard to find in many nurseries. I suggest you call several nurseries and locate a source. Also, you may wish to modify your sprinkler system. If you don’t already have a timer for automatic irrigation, purchase one now. Be certain the timer has at least 3-4 starting times per day. Have the first starting time begin when the morning dew burns off the soil surface, then the following 2-3 start times can be spread out to end the day leaving a moist soil surface. Adjust the length of each irrigation to stop just before soil surface puddling occurs. Also, Kellogg puts out a topping for newly seeded lawns, which is a blend of nitrohumus and wood fiber. It was previously available at Home Depot for $3.98 for 1.5 cu ft. This should maintain a moist surface for a longer period, as well as give the seed a slow release of nutrients. Now is also a time to put in a sod lawn, but I would suggest having it done by one of the sod suppliers. They prepare the soil and soil surface in a manner that improves the water percolation from the sod into the soil. Rolling the sod directly onto the soil surface will usually produce stratification between the two, which in turn slows the downward water percolation.

  6. LAWNS. PERFORATING, DETHATCHING & OVER-SEEDING: October is a good time to both perforate and dethatch your lawn. Dethatching rids your lawn of dead grass, allowing better water penetration and somewhat better soil aeration. However, Perforation is the most effective method for improving water penetration and soil aeration, but I would recommend that you do both. I would suggest that you have a company come in and do the job. Over-seeding with a grass seed of your choice can be done following both or either of these. However, the lawn probably should be watered at least once a day, somewhat like planting a new lawn.

  7. ORDER GRAPES, FRUIT TREES, & BERRIES. If you plan to buy special kinds of fruits by mail, order soon to ensure you get the types you want in time for dormant-season planting. However, many of our local nurseries will special order for you, as well as suggest those varieties that do best in your area

  8. ROSES, which varieties do I want to plant, and do I need to special order them (For

those that plan to purchase some new varieties, see 26 below: .Although the first bare-root roses won’t be available in the nurseries until late December, now is the time to assess how well your current roses are doing. Those bushes which have not done well should be put on your possible replacement list. It is a waste of your time and money to tolerate perennials that don’t perform satisfactorily. Replace them while you still have time to

enjoy them. A few factors to consider when purchasing roses are the quality of growth and blossoms; especially the plant’s susceptibility to rust, black spot, and powdery mildew. To do otherwise means you are willing to spray frequently or may try Bayer’s All in one systemic fungicide and insecticide to control diseases on a specific variety you like, or be willing to accept any foliar damage they do to your rose bushes. Most of the varieties receiving the annual AARS award since 2000 have varying degrees of resistance to all 3 of these diseases. Also, it is usually a good idea to have a few highly fragrant varieties on your list of roses to purchase. You only need 1 fragrant rose in a bouquet to make the entire group appear to be fragrant as well as permeate the room. If you plant enough highly fragrant roses the entire rose garden may be fragrant. Which nurseries should I use? I felt Wegman’s in Redwood City was the best. However, I have used Carlmont Nursery in Belmont and found them also very good. We have purchased bare-root roses from them and they did a very good job of pruning and packaging. Also, we purchased a 5 gallon potted rose (Ingrid Bergman) from them 3 years ago, and for several reasons it remained in the container and wasn’t planted until this year. I planted it and 3 other bare root roses that I had put in 5 gallon containers 2 years ago. All 4 have bloomed 3 times this year, with as many as 30 or more blooms each time. Also, they have grown lushly to about 6 feet tall, and I have pruned them back to about 4 feet, to keep them more compact. I attribute the excellent growth to better plant site soil preparation. I dug the holes down to the clay, screened out the good top soil. On the side in a plastic mortar box, i mixed the top soil with equal amounts of my compost, and commercial compost. I then planted the roses in the 5 gallon containers as per 6. above. I later applied to the surface a slow release fertilizer, alfalfa pellets; Bayer’s 2 in One Systemic Rose and Flower Care, and covered this with 2 inches of mulch. Later, I installed an irrigation line to each bush, which irrigates each bush 3 times a week for 15 minutes each time. Also at the same time I had dug the holes for the roses, I dug a 6 inch ditch downhill for good drainage. I filled the ditch with rocks, and sand, and covered the upper 2 inches with top soil. If you need a few bushes that do reasonably well in a somewhat shady area, I found that even in a good rose nursery like Wegman’s, they don’t have all of the shade varieties that Kathy Guthrie and others have recommended for our area. I would suggest you look at last year’s “December-January in your garden” as a list to choose from. I have abstracted and updated this part, and plan to incorporate it as an attachment to October in Your Garden. Also remember in December we order our Aspen-slow release fertilizer (comparable to Osmocote), and alfalfa pellets from Kathy Guthrie. I pick them up, and have them available at our February meeting.

  1. MAINTENANCE

  2. DEADHEADING: This is removing flowers when they have faded. There are several reasons to do this. A. The plant looks better. B. You shouldn’t let your plant set seed, because it can reduce growth and flowering of the plant. C. However, even more important, seed production, especially of older plant varieties, frequently signals the plant to stop producing flowers. In the wild, with most flowering plants, producing seed was the means of perpetuating the species. As such, when seed had been produced, the plant had done ‘its reproductive thing’ for the season. If it is a perennial, it will frequently stop flowering and start storing reserves within the plant for next year’s growth. However, with many of the new hybrid species of annuals and a few perennials, they don’t produce viable seed and some grow so fast they need very little deadheading. However, for appearance sake you may choose to deadhead. Some fast growing plants, like Peter Pan zinnias that I normally have out front, may hide many of the spent flowers by covering them with new growth.

  3. CARE FOR PERENNIALS. Continually deadhead your roses to keep them blooming. Any good hydrangea blossoms still on the plant can be picked and enjoyed indoors. Sear the cut stems with a match to prolong vase life. Cut back straggly plants almost to the ground. Work compost or comparable into any bare spots. Divide and replant plants that are crowded and not performing well. Cut back your Shasta daisies and marguerites after blooming.

  4. DIVIDE PERENNIALS. It’s time to divide your Shasta daisies, gloriosa daisies (Rudbeckia) and purple coneflower (Echinacea). Dig up large clumps and divide them into two or three smaller sections using a shovel or ax. Replant immediately.

  5. CLEAN UP THOROUGHLY, to reduce the number of sites that harbor insects and diseases that can over-winter. Also pull weeds, spent annuals and vegetables. Clean up all fruit and leaves. Compost only pest free plant debris; recycle the remainder with your garbage company. Their commercially made compost normally gets hot enough to kill insects and disease organisms. A last choice is to toss it into your garbage can.

  6. WAIT TO PRUNE. Fall is not a good time to prune. Wounds heal slowly, leaving them more prone to infection by certain disease organisms. As a general rule, don’t prune when leaves are falling or forming. Wait until late in the dormant season to prune most trees. To avoid sap flow on birches and maples, prune immediately after leaves mature.

  7. MARK BULBS, SEEDED AREAS, and PLANTS. This time of year, if you have planted any non-woody plant that dies down in winter, mark its position either with a weatherproof tag or on a map of your garden. Otherwise, you may cut into it or dig it up as you plant new things in spring.

  8. WATER & FROSTS; Each year can differ and this year is very unusual; don’t count on normal winter rains to take over your irrigation. Keep watering even if the weather stays cold (check soil moisture with a trowel down to about 12 inches). A moisture meter usually gives you an even better and easier assessment of the soil moisture. These are usually available at nurseries; Orchard Supply has them for about $8. Cold, dry winds take moisture out of already-dry leaves and roots can’t replace it from dry or frozen soil. Many plants that died in the severe 1990 freeze actually died of dehydration since rains had been almost nonexistent. Also, moist soil will usually protect the root system from freezing, and a good irrigation before an anticipated frost is always a good idea. Remember relatively dry winters are likely to bring hard frosts.

  9. FERTILIZATION. Most plants need to be fertilized in preparation for winter. A few specific plants are most tree crops to include apricot, cherry, peach, avocado, and citrus. Also with plants like tuberous begonias, and fuchsias, you don’t want any new growth but merely preparing them for next season. For such as these, a 0-10-10 (NPK) is usually recommended. The three major plant nutrients are nitrogen N, phosphorous P, and potassium K (usually referred to as potash). Nitrogen speeds vegetative growth and gives leaves a rich green color. Phosphorus promotes root activity and the ripening and maturing of plant tissues, and is necessary for flower and fruit production. Potassium encourages the development of plant tissues and the manufacture of sugars and starches within the plant. The experts don’t agree on recommendations for fertilization of plants from October-March. However, at this time, most recommend N-P-K as 0-10-10 for plants like azaleas, camellias, rhododendrons, roses and citrus. In part because you don’t want new growth going into the winter, but even more important P & K are needed for the development of the buds and flowers. Also, nitrogen N is usually omitted for perennials because it may produce frost-sensitive new growth. Generally this is not desired during the winter months; however, if you have planted winter annuals, N is needed during the warm period of the fall, to produce maximum growth and bloom. Also after vegetative plant growth ceases, much of any N applied will most likely be leached out (washed out) of the root-zone by the winter rains. Winter blooming plants are usually reasonably frost tolerant. Also, lawns need N while it is still warm enough for active growth. On the other hand, P & K are rather immobile, but winter rains can help move them a little deeper into the root zone. The relative immobility of P & K may require a plant to obtain most of the P & K by the roots in the upper 6 inches of soil. Many perennials by late spring will have developed both fruit/flower and vegetative buds. At this time of year, the flower buds will be expanding and need P & K for maximum flower development, hence the justification by some for 0-10-10. However in the spring most plants also need N, so fertilization at that time should include N. With certain perennials like grapes, the fruit buds which have developed by June, establish the number of bunches and their size for the following year. Most fruit trees have similar fruit bud development patterns. As such you can see the need for spring applied N for most fruit trees, vines and bushes.

  10. SYSTEMIC PESTICIDES: In last month’s September in Your Garden I covered Bayer’s systemics in considerable detail. How do they differ from conventional pesticides? Pesticides that are designated as systemic are absorbed into the ‘sap’ of the plant, either as foliar sprays, or drenches to the plant’s ‘feeder roots’. In the case of insects, they vary as to their primary food source. Worms and many other insects consume the leaves and other portions of the plant. Sucking insects such as aphids, scales, and several other feed exclusively on the plant juices (‘sap’). As such, I had expected them to be the only insects that would be controlled with systemic insecticides by this mode of action, because their entire food supply is the plant juices in which the systemic insecticides concentrate. With worms, the plant juices are a very small percentage of their food supply. However, some of the newer systemic insecticides also control some of the non-sucking insects. Systemic insecticides when sprayed on plants also kill many insects upon contact, but their effectiveness varies between insect species, and between each specific systemic insecticide. As systemics, they can be expected to have a much longer residual activity. We now have available for the home gardener, 2 systemic fungicides included in Bayer’s Disease Control for Roses, Flowers & Shrubs) for roses and other plants. Because fungi are distinctly different from insects, control of fungi will be somewhat different. Insects are grouped with animals, and fungi with plants. The conventional fungicide sprays are protectants; they protect new foliage from being infected, and need to be applied periodically as new foliage develops on the plant. With a systemic fungicide it will redistribute itself into the new foliage as it develops and stop infection from developing. However with continuing new growth and fungicide degradation, this will result in reduced concentrations of the fungicide, which in turn will determine how long it is effective, and how frequently it should be applied. I would suggest that you try the following. You know which of your roses are highly susceptible to rust, black spot, and powdery mildew. If you use this product, apply only to those highly susceptible bushes, and observe the effectiveness of the product. Actually now should be a good time to try this, because rust and black spot become more evident on older non functioning senescent leaves

  11. Weed control: Seedicides are usually referred to as pre-emergent herbicides. They work only on germinating seeds (mostly the smaller seed types). Their use in areas that are watered can substantially reduce the number of weed seedlings, and make weeding easier. A common active ingredient is Treflan. Be careful with lawn fertilizer/herbicide mixes as they usually contain a 2,4-D type herbicide for already established broad-leaf weeds and these generally should be used only on lawns.

  12. Deer Deterrents: There are several effective methods for keeping deer away from feeding on your plants. Each has merits that you should consider, but there are 4 that appear to be the best. A. Fences-properly built they are very effective. A regular 4-6 foot fence is usually very effective in keeping deer out of your yard in most residential areas. Although somewhat expensive, they serve multiple purposes. Deer can jump rather high, and In estate areas such as Filoli, to avoid the necessity of building a very high fence, a 6 foot fence topped with another 3-4 foot section on a 45 degree angle facing in the direction of the unfenced area is used over which they cannot jump. This is necessary because once they are aware of good grazing to be had; they will jump over a regular 4-6 foot high fence to get in. B. Electric fences for deer-they come in 2 powers, both can be used to deter deer. Some are labeled 1) For dogs (1 brand name Fido) useful in front yards, and 2) For livestock-it is used to temporarily enclose and restrict livestock to a large field for grazing. The electrical component is a transformer; that converts a regular 110 volt AC current to a DC current. Both cost about $30. The more powerful transformer usually has additional equipment for its installation. I have improvised my own and somewhat simple system when using it. I use 6 foot ½ inch ‘rebars’ (concrete reinforcing bars) around the perimeter of my 60 rosebushes. I slide ½ inch white PVC pipe over each rebar to insulate the ‘hot’ bare copper wire from the grounded rebars (driven into the soil). I run 2 insulated 14 gauge wires (white-the ground wire, and another color the hot wire) from my shop out to the yard, and connect the white ground to a rod driven into the soil deep enough to be in moist soil. I continue the insulated hot wire down to the rose garden where I connect it to a bare hot copper wire, suspended about 30-36 inches above the ground. C. Fishing line deer fence-it is no longer available at OSH (Orchard Supply and Hardware), Millbrae store. It consists of stakes to which high strength nylon fishing line is attached, and surrounds the area you wish to protect.. The fishing line extends and attaches to each stake. There may be 2 or more fishing lines used, each attached at different heights above the ground to make contact with a deer as it approaches the lines. When the deer approach the fish lines they don’t see them, and when they contact the fish line they are ‘spooked’ and retreat. This is probably the simplest and easiest system to keep deer away. However, unless you can find a source, all that I can suggest is that you improvise something like I did with my electric deer fence in B. above. However, I would recommend that you purchase a high test nylon fish line. D. A motion detector activated sprinkler-OSH (Millbrae) now stocks Scare Crow. This unit consists of a battery powered motion detector, a ‘Rainbird type’ rotating sprinkler all with a spike to stick it into the garden soil, and a fitting to attach a garden hose. When a deer approaches your roses or other plants of their choosing, it kicks on for a few seconds, just long enough to scare the deer away. Each time it turns on it uses only a few cups of water. At OSH they cost about $70.

  13. The bare-root season for roses is not far off. Bare-root roses are normally the best type to plant. A few start arriving in the nurseries the first of November, but most arrive the middle of December. Be among the first customers, because usually the best plants are the first to be shipped and the first to be purchased. It is best if you do your research now, and know what to purchase or order by early November. Rank your important considerations when making your selections: 1) are they for appearance or for cutting, 2) disease resistance, 3) color, 4) fragrance, etc. If for cutting and fragrance, a single highly fragrant rose, in a bouquet can fill the room with its fragrance. However, when it comes to roses order them from your nurseryman in advance. Nurseries like Wegman’s and Carlmont usually give you a discount if you order them before the end of November. The best bare-root plants will be in large containers filled with wet sawdust or similar media. In some nurseries. In others the roses may come in a cardboard box like a milk carton, with or without a moist media. Plants in these cardboard boxes have their roots trimmed to fit the box. For smaller nurseries, this is the only practical way for them to meet your needs

  14. The most popular rose form is the hybrid tea. Plants are ever-blooming and flowers are large and well shaped, many with one large rose per long stem. They are preferred for cutting arrangements. Floribundas-have numerous smaller roses produced in a cluster at branch ends. Plants are usually smaller in size than teas. Good for mass plantings, hedges or in containers. Grandifloras-flowers are either single or in clusters on long stems. Usually vigorous growers and large; making them good for use as screens, background plants, or as physical barriers. Many of the newer varieties produce large numbers of flowers and are good for cutting. Climbers-classic flowers are often available in named varieties found in other rose groups. Canes grow long enough to train on a fence, trellis, arbor or other such support. Tree roses, which are also called standards are usually ‘teas’ grafted onto a tall cane (tree). They are usually planted along walks leading to the front door of the home.

  15. Rose articles and recommendations: I have numerous articles and recommendations that I have scanned into my computer, and also variety recommendations that I have compiled. If you are interested in these, I plan to add these as an attachment to the E-mail of October in Your Garden; that I send out following this meeting. At that time you can down-load them if you are interested.

  16. Christmas Gifts: It is not too early to consider and explore gardening gifts for family members, friends, and those that did something very special for you this year, and wouldn’t let you reciprocate with anything. The following are just a few ideas.

  1. Magazines & books: 1). Sunset magazine-a subscription, I take it and each year when I renew it, I get a substantial discount as gift subscriptions for my children and grand children. 2). Sunset Western Garden book. Every gardener should have a copy with a revision not more than 10 years old. 3). Sunset has numerous paper back volumes for different plant groups, pruning, etc. 4). Ortho’s Gardeners Problem Solver. 5). And many others. These books are not always available in stores like OSH

Garden supplies (tools, gloves, etc): The number to choose from is almost endless. 1). Gloves; be sure whoever works in the roses has the gloves that extend nearly to the elbow. Gloves are inexpensive as stocking stuffers. 2). Tools; Fiskars has an extensive array of pruners that are built for the ladies and

appreciated by the men who use them. I have found that OSH stocks a more complete line of Fiskars

tools than any of the others. 3). Storage and kneeling systems; There are numerable new ones that

make gardening much easier.

The following are notes from our meeting-relative to John Chiapelone presentation.

It is time to purchase your bulbs, the best ones go fast, and you will usually do best if you purchase them from nurseries like those listed for Jumbo daffodils below. Have some idea of just which you want and do your research before you go shopping. Use your Sunset Western Garden Book as a starter, and if you don’t have the latest revision 2007, purchase it now and designate it a Christmas gift to yourself or your spouse. It will be your best first book to use in doing your research. It isn’t trying to sell you any special plant, such as catalogues from various companies. Also, it is the best general reference for almost any plant that you maybe interested in for your garden. Next pull out your catalogues, and review them. Below we discuss bulbs, but there are several things that you may be planning to plant, such as roses, trees, shrubs etc. and the Western Garden Book is again a good place to start your research as to what to plant.

Bulbs

Daffodil size grades are from best to poorest and are jumbo, #’s-1, 2, 3, 4.

Jumbos are usually only available at individual nurseries, such as Golden-San Mateo, Wegman’s-Redwood City, and Roger Reynolds- Menlo Park. The jumbo bulbs cost more, but produce more than a single stem of blooms, and are usually worth the extra money. Store the bulbs in a cool dry location, but write yourself a note as to where put them, and the note where you periodically will see it. The bulbs stored for a year or more and then planted will be disappointing Plant daffodils, hyacinths, tulips crocus in November – December, but only after the soil has cooled down. This is usually December in our area; but watch the soil temperature.

Bulbs need sunlight and good drainage. Plant in clumps or drifts

Interplant with small plants such as small pansies, violas, forget me nots, etc with colors that complement the color of the bulb bloom. You can even use parsley and cilantro. (See October in Your Garden, page 3, 1F) You may use a bulb fertilizer (0-10-10) when planting these. Follow label directions. See general discussion under Fertilization page 8, 23.

Bulbs such as daffodils have a variety of color combinations in the bloom, and tulips have not only different colors, but also flower shapes, such as fluted. See Sunset Western Garden Book, revision 2007

Paper whites (narcissus) and hyacinths can be planted as single bulbs in a wide variety of containers without drain holes, using gravel or similar material in the bottom. Place the bulb upright on the gravel, and add water up to and covering the base of the bulb. Then store them in a dark place for 6-8 days to develop roots; which in turn will stabilize the bulb for upright plant growth. After that just maintain the water near the base of the bulb, as only the roots need the water. The blooms should last about 2 ½ weeks. About a tablespoonful of gin or vodka added to the water will stunt the elongated vegetative stem growth but should not affect the blooms.

You can also, plant the bulbs in potting soil in a wide variety of containers-(See page 3,1H)

If you have the right spots in your garden, daffodils can be naturalized (See page 3, 1G). Bea Lewis and Ann Berkyto have had some success with their tulips naturalized. We need their inputs on this..

After your bulbs have bloomed, feed them with a complete fertilize. Those bulbs that were in containers with only water; either plant them in pots or in the ground and fertilize them with a complete fertilizer.

Fertilize citrus all winter long with a citrus fertilizer which contains micronutrients (trace elements), some of which are chelated. Miracle Gro has the trace elements.

Roses in our area never go completely dormant, and as such late fertilization should be avoided. You may sacrifice some late bloom, but you want your bush to be in the best possible condition for next year’s growth and bloom. If you fertilized with Apex, supposedly a 9 month release controlled release fertilizer.

The above suggestions are based on my notes of John Chiapelone’s presentation at our meeting. John owned the Burlingame Garden Center and after 50 year’s retired and sold his business. He joined our Garden Group last year and has been a major contributor at each meeting. His general knowledge of home gardening, and especially his 50 years of experience with plants grown on the San Francisco Bay Area Peninsula is a tremendous asset for our group.