SIR’s BRANCH #1 GARDENING GROUP

SEPTEMBER IN YOUR GARDEN

Revised 8/29/07

Use a highlighter to indicate things you plan to do.

September is a pivotal month on a gardener’s calendar, and is probably only second to April as the busiest time of the year, that means some advance planning. As such, I have included some of the major projects for September and what you need to consider for October..

What needs to be done?

1. BUY YOUR BULBS as soon as they are available, so you can select the best if available in ‘bulk’ or by the bulb. They should become available sometime in September. Most OSH, Home Depot, Lowe’s, Costco and your local nurseries normally have them then.

2. WHEN AND WHERE TO PLANT YOUR BULBS: as a general rule plant them in November, however some can be planted in October

Some suggestions when planting your bulbs and refrigerator storage

1. Plant some bulbs in an area that can be seen through a window from the inside of your house.

2. Fill an entire bed with bulbs from each major type, such as a circle of daffodils, a swath of tulips, and clumps of crocus. Come late winter-spring, you will have an incredible changing show for weeks.

3. Plant clumps of bulbs in a small area where you’d like to see some spring color, such as under deciduous trees and around a mailbox or utility pole.

4. Tulips, hyacinths, and crocus, and their need of ‘chilling’. They should be stored in the refrigerator (not the freezer compartment) for 6-8 weeks prior to planting. Do not remove them from the refrigerator until you are ready to plant them, because the value of the chilling effect may be lost in a few days.

3. BULBS TO CHOOSE FROM: African corn lily (Ixia), Anemones, baboon flower (Babiana), Clivia, Crocus, daffodils, Dutch Iris, dwarf Narcissus, Freesia, grape hyacinth (Muscari), harlequin flower (Sparaxis), Homeria collina, hyacinths, Leucojum, Lycoris, naked lady (Amaryllis belladonna), Oxalis, ranunculus, Scilla, Tritonia, and species tulips (such as Tulipa clusiana, T saxatilis), Watsonia , and windflower (Anemone coronaria). A. It is usually best to buy the old standards and new varieties locally if available, B. Buy from catalogues those things not locally available and regard them as experimental for your area, because they may have been developed for another area. C. Choose the biggest, plumpest bulbs, corms, and rhizomes, with no visible signs of disease. D. Store them in a cool dry location until planted, You can plant them as early as November (daffodils as early as October) for color depending upon when you want them to bloom. The early-planted bulbs will usually retain their blooms longer during the cool winter period. You can stagger your planting over the period from November-January and extend the blooming period. E. For immediate color and fill-in, interplant with low growing winter annuals such as violets, and others.

4. POTTED BULBS (daffodils, hyacinths and tulip-mass effect): You can plant about 5-6 in a 6 inch pot, 10-12 in an 8 inch, 20-25 in a 12, and 40-50 in a 16. Plant so the top of the bulbs are about 4 inches below the rim. Leave about 2 inches below the rim for watering. Again, remember hyacinths and tulips usually do best after storing in the refrigerator (3D. above.)

5. BEARDED IRIS: They are rhizomes rather than true bulbs, but now is the time to plant them. They need sun and good drainage. If your existing plants have been in the ground for 3 years, they are probably overcrowded. They should be lifted and divided before replanting. Break or cut rhizomes apart and discard rotted or diseased parts. Let the cut ends be allowed to dry for several hours before replanting. Also, failure to replant within a few days often results in substantially reduced blooming.

6. SOIL PREPARATION BEFORE PLANTING: Before planting anything, properly prepare the soil. Remember that the roots need adequate amounts of oxygen, water, and fertilizer plant nutrient. However, before proceeding, I thought it might be well to give you and overview of the complexity of the soil, and the importance of improving your own garden soil. Because the soil’s cation exchange of K+ is so important in the growth and health of plants, I thought I should abstract a section of Cation Exchange from California Master Gardener handbook, University of California, Agriculture and Natural Resources before proceeding. The K (potassium) you apply to the soil is usually in a very soluble form, and in the soil water solution, it has a positive charge + (cation) and is bound to the – negatively charged soil clay particles to varying degrees. Because clay minerals are so active in these mineral exchanges, they are major determiners of the chemical and physical properties of a given soil, and they largely determine how a plant will grow in that soil. Cations replace one another on the surfaces of the clay minerals because of their relative affinities for the surfaces of the clay particles and because the soil maintains a chemical equilibrium between the ions adsorbed onto the soil surfaces, and those located in the soil solution. Climate, relative humidity, and drainage can also affect how strongly ions are adsorbed. When cation exchange occurs, the cation is released from the clay mineral into the soil solution and becomes available for absorption by plant roots. (the cations most involved in this are K+, Ca+ (calcium), Na+ (sodium), and H+ (hydrogen). Now back to preparing your soil for planting, but also emphasizing the above. Cover the soil surface with compost or other organic material to improve the soil structure, and a 16-16-16 (N-P-K) fertilizer or if you have used that for several years in this specific area, use just nitrogen as ammonium sulfate, (21% N). P & K are not very mobile. The P is relatively insoluble, and even when applied as a soluble P such as in Miracle-Gro, it is converted to relatively insoluble salts in the soil. The K is is usually in a very soluble form, but in the soil water solution, it has a positive charge + (cation) and is bound to the – negatively charged soil clay particles to varying degrees. There is a constant exchange of K+ between clay minerals and the soil solution and between the soil solution and plants as stated above. Then spade in the fertilizer as deeply as practical to incorporate the relatively non-mobile K & P deeper, and also to aerate the soil as deep as possible. The improved soil aeration, and good water infiltration are so essential for good root development and good growth. If you want the most vigorous growth, ‘double digging’ gives the best results (Look in your Sunset’s, Western Garden Book- and look in A Practical Guide to Gardening section, which follows the Western Plant Encyclopedia.). In our area, all of our native soils should have substantial percentages of clay well distributed through it as part of the tillable surface soil. The individual particles are so small that you don’t recognize them. In most of our area you don’t have to dig very deep before you encounter layers of putty like clay. When practical remove any clumps of such clay, and hopeful you have a place to put them.

7. LATE SUMMER-FALL COLOR: It’s not too late for allysum, Celosia, Cosmos, Dahlia spp., dwarf Phlox, dusty miller (large group of plants with gray foliage), Lobelia erinus, Nicotiana, Tagetes spp. (marigolds) and Zinnias. In the shade, Coleus, fibrous Begonias and Impatiens.

8. COOL SEASON FLOWERS-are now available and should be planted after mid-September, so they get established and start blooming before the weather turns cold. If the weather is hot, and it is practical, shade new seedlings temporarily. Otherwise, it would be best to water these new plantings twice a day. In the morning shortly after 9 AM, and again around 4 PM. When practical, plant new seedlings in the late afternoon, followed by watering to minimize the stress imposed by the afternoon heat and baited for snails and earwigs. In all cases keep the soil moist to allow the disturbed roots from transplanting, to begin establishing a new root system. Set out Calendula, Myosotis spp. (forget-me-nots), Senecio hybridus (cineraria), Iceland and Shirley poppies, larkspur, Nemesia, ornamental cabbage and kale, pansies, primrose, Schizanthus, snapdragon, stock, sweet peas, toadflax and Violas.

9. PLANT PERENNIALS. A. Fall-bloomers: Some good choices are asters, chrysanthemums, gaillardia, gloriosa daisies, purple coneflower, Japanese anemones, and lion’s tail. B. When the weather cools a bit, plant campanula, candytuft, catmint, coreopsis, delphinium, dianthus spp., diascia, foxglove, gaillardia, geum, Japanese anemone, penstemon, phlox, pincushion flower, salvia, Scaevola and yarrow. Nurseries should have a good selection in 6-packs, 4-inch pots and gallon cans. C. For Shade-English primroses, fairy primrose, Primula obconica, cinerarias and cyclamen (if it’s cool). D. For sun-calceolaria, calendulas, clarkia, Iceland poppies, larkspur, mimulus, nemesia, ornamental cabbage, pansies, schizanthus, snapdragons, stock and violas. E. Sow seed of baby blue eyes, Cineraria, forget-me-nots, Nemesia, sweet alyssum, sweet peas and Viola. The sooner your cool-season flowers are planted in the warm autumn soil the better, especially when direct seeded. For a good and relatively easy to make trellis for sweet peas use 3/8” metal rebar*. Drive 2 lengths of rebar into the ground as uprights, and upper and lower cross pieces of rebar. Run string /\/\/\ over the cross pieces. I usually make a somewhat more elaborate trellis, I cover the 2 rebars with ½“ white PVC with 2 ½” Tees inserted, 1 near the bottom and the other near the top. Into these T’s I insert ½” PVC pipe cross pieces, usually 4-6 feet long. I then run string /\/\/\ over the cross pieces, and plant the seed immediately below the lower cross piece. After the sweet peas are through blooming, cut the string and dispose of or compost the plants. The entire trellis can then be disassembled and stored for next season.

10. SET OUT PERMANENT PLANTS-perennials: Nurseries should be well stocked with a good variety of trees, shrubs, vines and ground covers (wait until spring to plant frost-tender plants such as Bougainvillea and citrus).

11. PLANT or SOW FALL and WINTER BLOOMING ANNUALS: bachelor buttons (Centaurea cyanus), Calendula officinalis (pot marigold), candytuft (Iberius spp), Iceland poppy (Papaver nudicaule), Nemesia spp, pansy (Viola spp), primrose (Primula spp.), stock (Matthiola spp), snapdragon (Antirrhinum spp), sweet peas (Lathyrus odoratus) [select early bloomer varieties] and Viola spp. It's not too late for a last planting of petunias. Try Goldsmith's hybrid millifora 'Fantasy Pink Morn,' which is a very pale pink with edges painted a deeper pink, and has a watercolor translucency. It was a 1996 All America Selection winner. It has a natural dwarf habit and does not require pinching. Cosmos are good for borders (check height of varieties). These are a favorite flower for beneficial insects.

12. SUMMER BLOOMERS: It's not too late for some of these you will find in your nursery. A few perennials that bloom now and into the fall are Achillea spp. (yarrow), Aster spp., Begonias various types, annual Clarkia spp, includes Godetia spp., Coreopsis spp.*, Cosmos, Dahlia spp., many daylily (some varieties-HemerocalIis spp.), Impatiens spp., Iris ensata, Crinum spp.-Iilies, fortnight lilies (Dietes spp.), geraniums (Pelargonium spp.) Lantana montevidensis, statice (Limoniium perezii), Mexican bush sage (Salvia leucantha) and other Salvia spp., Phlox spp., Portulaca grandiflora (moss rose), Scabiosa caucasica (pincushion flower), Verbena spp., Veronica spp., and Vinca spp. (* I have found Coreopsis an excellent perennial, with a yellow daisy-like flower, it is good for 2 or more years if deadheaded during the growing season and cut back in the fall.) For long blooming annuals plant: Celosia argentea (cockscomb), Cosmos spp., annual lobelia (Lobelia erinus), Madagascar periwinkle (Vinca rosea), French or dwarf African marigolds (Tagetes spp.), Nemophila spp., petunias, annual phlox (Phlox drummondii), sunflower (Helianthus spp.), sweet allysum (Lobularia maritima), and Zinnia spp.

13. CUT FLOWERS FOR WINTER & SPRING-plant snapdragons, stock & Calendula every 2 weeks through November for a succession of cut flowers for winter and spring.

14. INSTANT FALL COLOR-plant spider, spoon and pompon chrysanthemums. Those mums currently in your garden and which have quit booming-cut back to 2-3 inches.

15. PERENNIAL BORDERS: A. are most affordable when planted from 6-packs, preferably pony packs if available. Most good local nurseries will order the pony packs for you if they are available (demand has decreased), and they will inform you when you can pick them up. B. Campanulas, candytuft, columbine, coral bells, Coreopsis, Delphinium, Dianthus/carnations, dusty miller, foxgloves, Gaillardia, Oriental poppies, Penstemon, Phlox, Shasta daisies (note they come in several varieties), English daisies, gloriosa daisies and Salvia. C. Spring and summer blooming perennials-most should be cut back or divided, when they turn brown or yellow following blooming. (See Sunset’s, Western Garden Book- Look in A Practical Guide to Gardening, following Western Plant Encyclopedia, under pruning. D. If divided you may wish to share them with friends. Candidates include Aster, bellflowers, callas, daisies, daylilies, Helianthus, Rudbeckia and yarrow. Dig each clump so the root-ball remains intact. Wash or gently shake off excess soil, then cut divisions using a sharp knife. Each division should have leaves and plenty of roots. Plant immediately. E. Ground covers: Old favorites-ajuga, Ceanothus, cotoneaster, hypericum, ivy, Japanese spurge, juniper, manzanita, red apple(Aptenia), Asteriscus maritimus and Teucrium cossonii, also sold as (T. majoricum.)

16. TREES FOR FALL FOLIAGE COLOR CAN BE PLANTED NOW: Chinese pistache, Ginkgo biboa, sourwood, Japanese maples*, liquidambar, persimmon, Chinese tallow, hawthorn, flowering plum, crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica) and dogwood. Some suggest that you wait until you note the changing of leaf color in the neighborhood trees, and then head to the nursery to select your choice of trees to plant for fall color. However, if you want color in your Japanese maples, and need guidance, Carlmont Nursery in Belmont specializes in Japanese maples, and they are the best qualified nursery in our area to help you. Also, if you want the reds-purple be certain you select the right species. Inquire at your nursery. As an example, Ginkgo biloba produces only shades of yellow, as well as some of the maples, even some of the Japanese maples. Remember fall color normally begins when the summer temperatures drop-‘autumn’. For a maximum of color changes, plant your trees in the sun. If you already have such trees, continue watering until the temperature drops, and then stop watering if at all possible. Probably the simplest explanation for fall colors is that while the tree is actively growing, it produces green chlorophyll in the leaves, which masks the other colors. When the plant goes dormant it no longer produces the green chlorophyll in the leaves and the other colors become apparent.. The benefits of fall planted trees: Shrubs, trees, and groundcovers get a head start when planted in fall. Set them out early enough so roots begin to grow while the soil is warm. As the weather turns cool and fall rains come, roots will become well established by spring. A fall-planted tree is well rooted and should burst into growth in late spring, whereas a spring-planted tree grows slowly in cool soil. A small root system limits top growth. However, for those trees that become available in January as bare-root trees, it is better to wait until then.

17. SHRUBS: Plant oak-leaf hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia), and snowball bush (Lagerstroemia indica).

18. VEGETABLES: broccoli, chard, cabbage, cauliflower, Brussel sprouts, and spinach are available in 6 packs: plant seed of beets, Bibb lettuce, carrots, cauliflower, garlic (cloves), leeks, onion, peas, radishes, shallots, spinach and turnips. The sooner your cool-season vegetables are planted in the warm autumn soil the better, and especially when direct seeded.

19. WILDFLOWERS: October and November is the time to spread and rake in the seed.

20. REPLANT FLOWER POTS containing annuals-By September, summer flowers in pots may look bedraggled. To carry the container planting though the last remaining warm days, replant them with late-summer annuals such as cosmos, marigolds, salvias, or zinnias. Or wait until the end of the month to plant cool-season annuals such as calendula, Iceland and Shirley poppies, ornamental cabbage and kale, pansies, primrose, snapdragon, stock, sweet peas, and violas. Before planting, replace soil with new potting mix and an organic or timed release fertilizer. Don’t confuse ‘potting mix’ with ‘planting mix’. Potting mix is just what the name suggests-for pots. Recently a large number of new potting mixes have been introduced into the market by most of the major suppliers of such products. They contain all sorts of additives that should make you look like a master gardener. Keep track of the brands you buy, and purchase only those with which you have had your best growth and blooms. Also, keep us informed of your experience so we can incorporate it into our program. Planting mix is usually just soil with a few amendments added, and is useful in large pots, containers, and large planter boxes.

21. MAINTENANCE

22. DIG-UP- A. I prefer to dig up my gladiolus as they turn yellow. I clean them with an old tooth brush) and store them in a cool dry place. By digging them each year you can cull out the diseased corms, which otherwise could spread the disease to adjacent corms. However, you can leave them in several years without replanting. Each year a new corm develops on top of the old, leaving it about an inch shallower in the soil than the previous year. Without digging and later replanting, next years plants are more likely to require staking. However, each time they are replanted place them as deep as recommended, you should have several years before they require replanting. B. as your tuberous begonias die-back, remove them from the soil. In no case allow the dying-back begonias to “sit” in wet soil. They are very susceptible to “water molds.” However, if they are planted in pots or boxes, after blooming, move them to a dry area until next spring. C. Dahlias, if you plan to dig them, clean them and store in a cool dry place.

23. CLEANING BULBS TO BE STORED: After bulbs and bulblike plants are dug, I let them dry in the shade for about 1 week, and then I clean the dirt off, using an old toothbrush. Discard any bulbs with rot or obviously diseased. Then store in a cool dry place.

24. DIVIDE PERENNIALS: From now through October is the time to divide many. Divide plants such as agapanthus, candytuft, coreopsis, daylily, and penstemon that are either overgrown or not flowering well or you want to increase the number in your garden. Use a spading fork or shovel to lift and loosen clumps. With the shovel, a sharp knife or pruning shears, cut clumps into sections through soil and roots. Replant where desired.

25. FERTILIZE: Most plants that are actively growing should be fertilized once a month and now it is particularly true for winter annuals. Planting while it is still warm and the plants are actively growing, will usually produce maximum growth. However with perennials, as you approach winter with its potential frosts, it is usually a good idea to reduce the amount of N (nitrogen), to reduce new growth which is more frost sensitive. The cutting back on N and reducing new growth is referred to as “hardening off”. Because of this fertilizers low in N or without it, such as 0-10-10 are recommended. These fertilizers low in N are also recommended to improve bud set for the spring. Also, because P & K (phosphorous and potassium) move relatively short distances in the soil, application before the rains should improve some downward movement somewhat.

26. RECOMMENDATIONS BY PLANTS

27. Azaleas, camellias & rhododendrons: monthly applications of 0-10-10 or an equivalent should improve fall and winter blooms.

28. IRRIGATION: as it cools off, you should increase the number of days between irrigations or shorten the irrigation time or both. After the first rains don’t stop irrigating until the temperatures drop substantially and rains are frequent. Even then it isn’t a bad idea to keep your automatic systems programmed for short periods, at least once a week.

29. PRUNE: cut back cane berries, leaving only the new canes if they have developed. In November prune back dahlias if you don’t plan to dig them. However, fall for most other perennial shrubs and trees, is not a good time to prune, but rather after they bloom in the winter or spring.

30. PLANT LAWNS: Toward the end of the month is one of the best times to plant lawns. Before planting, rotary-till the soil and add plenty of organic matter and a lawn fertilizer or just a high NPK mix. Some of the dwarf tall fescues are some of the grasses to consider because of their drought tolerance, but you need to find a source. Previously, sodded lawns were recommended for slopes, and direct-seeding was preferred for relatively flat lawns. However, today there are companies that specialize in installing sod lawns. I have reviewed their procedures and their preparations for laying the sod should avoid ‘soil stratification’ that interferes with good in depth water penetration. When planting a new lawn, it may warrant modifying your existing sprinkler system. If you plan to plant seed, and you don’t already have a timer for automatic irrigation, purchase one now. Be certain the timer has at least 3-4 starting times per day. Have the first starting time begin when the morning dew burns off the soil surface, the following 2-3 start times can be spread out to end the day with a moist soil surface. This is essential to obtain maximum seed germination, and loss of seedlings from the drying of the surface soil. Adjust the length of irrigation to stop just before soil surface puddling occurs. For those of you with homes at Lake Tahoe, and want to plant a lawn, wait until October to plant it; it will germinate in spring when the snow melts.

31. LAWNS-Perforating and dethatching: it improves the aeration of the soil, improves water penetration and rids your lawn of much of the dead blades of grass and stems. I would suggest you hire someone to do this job with power equipment, because using a manual lawn peforator is a rather hard and time consuming job. Also, your results usually are not as good. Over-seeding with a grass seed of your choice can be done following the aeration and de-thatching. However for over-seeding, it may require watering at least once a day, almost like planting a new lawn.

32. Recently introduced new pesticides: I hope you will forgive me for over emphasizing Bayer’s relatively new line of garden pesticides labeled as Bayer-Advanced Garden. I have had limited but good results with a few of these products. However in the 60’s and 70’s while working for Dow we jointly developed some of Bayer’s earliest systemic insecticides, which were the best at the time. I feel they have some of the best products on the market.

33. Bayer Advanced Garden Products

6/28/06

2-in-1 Systemic Rose & Flower Care: is a ready to use systemic insecticide (disulfoton-1.0%) incorporated into the fertilizer granules (12-18-6, the percentages of N-nitrogen, P-phosphorous, K-potassium). Insects labeled for control: aphids, birch leafminers, elm leaf beetles, holly leafminers, lacebugs, leafhoppers, mimosa webworms, pine tip moths, spider mites, thrips, and whiteflies.

(* spittle bugs and certain scale insects.)The underlined are sucking insects, for which I would expect it to control, but the others are not, and which I wouldn’t have expected to be controlled by a systemic insecticide, based on the systemics available in the 60’s and 70’s. Obviously these are far more active than the Bayer product that I worked with then. It gives control for 6 weeks, for roses, I recommend that it be applied and incorporated into the soil when you are applying your controlled release fertilizer and alfalfa pellets to your roses in early March.

I have used this product ever since I observed it on OSH’s (Orchard Supply and Hardware’s) shelves. I apply it at the same time I incorporate Osmocote and alfalfa pellets around my roses, about March 15. It gave me complete control of the early aphids which previously had always been a problem. I have also observed this product giving complete control of spittle bugs on the roses, because I had observed their presence on other adjacent plants. In addition a friend of Fran’s uses it on her cymbidium orchids, giving complete control of scale. Thus spittle bugs*, and at least certain scale insects* might be added to the above label, but Bayer would have to supply data to justify this.

All-in-One Rose & Flower Care is a liquid concentrate formulation containing 3 systemic products in One. It protects up to 6 weeks. 1. a fertilizer (you don’t think of a fertilizer as being systemic, but of course it is), 2. This has a different systemic insecticide (imidacloprid 0.8%}, with a somewhat different spectrum of activity and 3. it also contains the systemic fungicide (tebuconazole 0.15%). The formulation is added to water and applied as a soil drench around the plant. The insecticide also appears to be a rather wide spectrum systemic insecticide, controlling not only sucking insects which is expected of systemic insecticides, but also others (non-sucking insects). Because of the method of application, it functions as a systemic by being absorbed by the roots and distributed throughout the plant. Tebuconazole is a systemic fungicide, and used extensively on food crops in Europe.

Insects labeled for control are adelgids, aphids, black vine weevil larvae, Japanese beetle (adults), lace bugs, leaf beetles, leafhoppers, leafminers, mealybugs, psyllids, scales, thrips, whiteflies. Diseases labeled for control are blackspot, rust, powdery mildew, and Southern blight

I have never had need of using it because most of the roses I have selected were disease resistant. I would appreciate you sending me an E-mail note on your experience with this product. I know several have used it.

Tree & Shrub Insect Control is a liquid concentrate formulation of imidacloprid systemic insecticide 1.47% (note almost twice as much as in All-in-One Rose & Flower Care, Thus, if your only control objective is insect control, you can expect better and longer insect control. It claims control up to 12 months. Like All-in-One Rose & Flower Care, the material is added to water and applied as a drench around the plant. There are several use aspects of this product that prompts their use consideration. 1). It is registered for use on apples and pears. This is the first systemic insecticide that I am aware of being registered for edible produce, and I hope this may just be the start of many fruit and vegetable crops they may ultimately register. Also its hazard use rating is only warning, indicating that is relatively safe to handle. This is very important today, considering all of the home use products that have been withdrawn from the market in recent years. Insects labeled for control are adelgids, aphids, black vine weevil larvae, bronze birch borers, Japanese beetles, leaf beetles, leafhoppers, leafminers, mealybugs, pine tip moth (larvae), psyllids, round headed borers, flat headed borers, royal palm bugs, sawfly larvae, various scales, thrips, and whiteflies. The underlined are sucking insects, for which I would expect it to control, but the others are not, and which previously I wouldn’t have expected to be controlled when functioning as a systemic.

This product has the potential for easily correcting a serious summer aphid problem on certain trees under which cars are parked. The honeydew which they produce and which drips down can mess up the appearance of your car if parked under it. It can also damage the paint (non-baked enamel) of some new and some repainted cars.

Disease Control for Roses, Flowers & Shrubs. A liquid concentrate formulation of tebuconazole 2.9%. It is a liquid formulation to be applied as a spray. Claims:Systemic formula-cures & prevents diseases-anthracnose, black spot, flower blight, leaf spot, petal blight, powdery mildew, rust, scab, and Southern blight.

I would suggest you try this on your roses anytime a problem appears, even if you earlier applied.

34. PEST & DISEASE CONTROL: A. Tobacco budworms are usually a problem on petunias and geraniums at this time of year (ivy geraniums are not usually affected). Bt –Bacillus thuringiensis (active ingredient) is the preferred product for budworms. Depending upon the company producer, the product is a suspension of bacteria that infect many species of lepidopterous insects (worms) and a few other insects but I don’t believe has any appreciable effect on natural predators or parasites of the worms. As such it is quite selective and allows natural predators and parasites to also feed on the budworms. However, a recent report suggests that control may be variable. B. Thrips can be a serious problem in San Mateo County. You can only detect these with a hand lens. Their damage results in bleached gray speckled leaves. Strip these leaves off, because they are now relatively non-functional. There are insecticides recommended for these, but I would suggest that you first try the new Bayer insecticide Tree & Shrub Insect Control. C. Spider mites-these tiny pests suck juices from plant leaves, causing stippling and they deposit tiny pink-white eggs on the underside of the leaves. When the populations are severe you can frequently see their fine webbing. Only Bayer’s 2-in-1 Systemic Rose & Flower Care lists spider mites, but being a granular formulation it would need to be placed under the plants where the irrigation water was being applied to remove it from the granules. Otherwise spray the tops and bottoms of the leaves thoroughly with a lightweight summer (horticultural) oil or Neem. D. Snails & Slugs- They can mount a full attack in cool, damp fall weather. You might consider using copper strips available in many nurseries. Copper is a good barrier for snails & slugs. Originally I made the following assumption that the snail with its slime and the copper in effect created almost a battery shocking the snail, but Gordon Lavering’s experiment with copper indicated an additional strip such as aluminum was needed to create somewhat of battery, resulting in an electric shock. Now I am not certain why copper strips are recommended as barriers. Applying a snail and slug bait immediately following the planting seedling is usually essential if you know or suspect you have snails or slugs in the area. E. Earwigs-my experience is that they are usually severely damaging when you are transplanting new seedlings. Applying earwig bait immediately following planting is usually essential, just as baiting is essential for snails and slugs. F. Codling moth worms infested most of the few pears I had (I never had time to spray). Also, the squirrels usually harvest most of my pears. I have the same worm problem with my Granny Smith apple. F. Fire-blight of pears-I lost one major limb 3 years ago, because I didn’t spot the infection early. The Fiege’s experience is that I may loose more limbs, but the tree is likely to continue to grow and produce fruit, although fewer.

34. HARVESTING FRUIT: Former recommendations for apples and pears was to gently lift up each fruit and if ‘ripe’ the stem will abscise (pull free) from the fruit bud. If it doesn’t, gently return it to its normal position. This is not true for all varieties, golden delicious apples being one. However, for the last 2 years we have observed green pears in the market from California, Argentina, Chile, and New Zealand which we found we liked while they were still green, because they were sweet and crispy.

35. DEBRIS CLEAN UP: Remove fruit and litter under trees. Compost only pest/disease free litter.

36. CUTTINGS: It’s time to consider next month for making cuttings of geraniums and other frost sensitive plants, root them, pot them, and place them in a frost free area to replace any plants that might be lost due to freezing this winter. At a later meeting you may want to share some of them with others, and you may wish specific cuttings from others. Also, it is a good idea to start new plants from cuttings to replace old woody and poor growing plants. Filoli replaces most of their plants like geraniums with plant tip cuttings they start each fall.